Orange County, the epitomy of conserative California, and endless rows of UV free tanning salons. Expensive cars, star bucks, gated up beach side homes, BMWs and Mercedes, limos making excursions to the beach...Ladies talking on and on about Levi's 501s and ideal waist sizes...all in all, a bland band of cities built on image, money, plastic surgeons, nice looking girls(but they all seem to look a like), and the ever ridiculous conserative republican christian ideology. Ok, that about sums up what to expect if you ever head down there. But I'm not here to talka bout that...I surfed! and surfed some of the smooth peeling longboard goodness that the O.C has to offer.San Onofre was my first stop. Nice classic longboard style shapes peeling for ever, with great women surfers executing some fancy footwork. Gosh, I wish I could do that. Downside of San O was the 10 dollar parking to get into the beach, which sits next to a nuclear processing facilty with some odd shaped dome like buildings. It took me a little while before I could get the hang of the waves. They were definately slower moving and at any time, some expert logger would paddle from way outside on a ten foot tank and ride all the way in to the beach. My morning to afternoon session was a warm up on those 2-3 foot waves, breaking at the spot called Old Man's. It was such a fun time. I managed to get a bunch of waves and also was turning the board and doing some primitive versions of cutbacks. I even went for some of the bigger sets on the outside and made most of my drops. My brother decided to surf in trunks, and was gut wrenching cold in about half and hour. We left to look for food around 3pm but ended up coming back for another evening glass off session.Evening session so so much fun, not because of my wave count, but the crew out there was just hooting for us and was just plain ol farting around. I got my biggest San O wave that night, but wasn't able to do much with it. I just made the drop, and forgot to do anything else, since I was just concentrating on not falling down the line. I got a few more that night, but called it quits after the sun dropped off the horizon.The next day, San O was like waiting for a new attraction at disneyland. Line was forming at the gate for any possible spot. So we ended up at Dana Point at a beach called Daphney State Beach. I went in trunks during the first part of the day. The waves were pretty much like San O, expect the lull was much longer and it was a beach break. I got a bunch of waves during the session as well, and paddling without a wet suit was so much better and less tiring. I got about 10 waves that day, and did some cut backs as well. Probably did not mean to do it, but was able to! Now I need to figure out how to maintain speed after turning down the line. I would pop up, turn as I come down the line, and then just end up with nothing! What's that all about!Too tired to write more...so some words to sum up the weekend...warm water goodnesstrunks and that's it!scraped up feetsore shoulders from all the paddlingbruised chest from cursed boardnice peelersmany loggersgreat women loggersfancy footworkgrom fest through the regiongroms ripping the rippablescan't stand more than an hour in trunksah...oh what fun it is to surf!
