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July 27, 2005

#67 - Utility Session

When have I started to just jump in to get wet? Well, today was one of those days. Small to non-existence wind swells, combined with some foggy south winds blowing sideshore, creates some ideal beginner conditions; as well as a big group of black clad bodies bobbing up and down the coast line.There wasn't much to be had today, but I haven't been out since last friday and need to somehow stay in touch with this new found obsession of mine.I got some small rides and some nicer arching bottom turns, but haven't been able to duplicate the trimming action I got at Santa Cruz. Most of the time, I'd just sit and watch people crawl for waves and kinda realizing if they will catch it or not. I guess I've started to make a little more progress on wave selection. Most of the ones I went for today, I caught. They were nothing too big, and were mostly closing out in front of me; err...was it because I am headed the wrong direction on the wave? Whatever...Most memorable moments include spotting a juciy wave, spinning around only to be blocked by the knights who say niiiiiiii.... No one would part ways for me to attempt the bigger ones coming through. Oh well...I need to bring some shrubery with me next time to please those knights who say niiiiiii...

July 26, 2005

mid week land locked

July 22, 2005

#66 - Had an incredible moment

Played hookie from work today, and headed down to SC for a day sessionsome mellow head high rollers and long lulls during the morningI got some playful ones but didn't get to do much on them. Then:paddled for a shoulder high, and managed to turn the board before the drop completedlocked into a trim, went up to the top!, the slid to the bottom, went for the top againthat was the coolest feeling, the board in trim, feeling in control of the wavesmiling half way through realizing this was my best wave,traveled quite a distance, got some more up and down, fell off at the end and my brother saw the whole thing and said " that's the best one i've seen you get"Stoked! paddled back out for some more, but didn't get much after that.lost my board for the first time. it hit the shore and someone picked it upmuch too crowded as the day wore on.had to pull out of a bunch of them, sat away from the takeoff spot, as I accidentally dropped in on a ripping shredderstoked to be out there, stoked to be there on a friday morning, stoked to get the best ride of my life,stoked for the moments that i had in the water, stoked in GENERAL!

July 20, 2005

#65

back to the home break today and was greeted with nothing but small wind swell waves. some were playful and i got to enjoy two of them. most of the time, i spent scratching for waves that rolled under me. i forgot to shift over to the peak. as i drove over the hill, the shifty peaks were occupied by the entire beginner crew. bumped into a regular that i talked to for a little bit. had to negogiate getting out of people's way. bumpy, a little junky and unpredictable.off to SC on friday to catch some of the pre-swell goodness that will roll through this weekened. since i will be in vegas, friday will have to do. there shouldn't be that many people out there early friday morning. back to a good point break to do some logging.

July 18, 2005

autocrossing

I survived my first attempt at autocrossing. I've been wanting to do this forever, but finally got off my ass, sign up for an SCCA license and went to an event. Man, was I so unprepared for this. The only prep work I did beforehand was clean out my car. That was about it. I should of brought tape with me, lunch, and sunscreen, and some water, and perhaps other things to keep me occupied. I did manage to find friendly people to bum off of and was able to get the car teched and gridded for the race. Most of these events were volunteer based and pretty grassrooted. I helped work the time sheets for a bit before my heat was up. I guess I didn't really pay attention to the course walk as my first three runs resulted in a DNF(did not finish). I completely missed an entire section of non-chalked slalom. Had I known, I would have probably been able to post some times. Driving on a road course is so much different than street driving. Everything is flying at you so fast you barely have anytime to react. The key is to look _WAY_ ahead and prepare for what is coming three corners out. I need to practice this, but I went more in the way of trying to memorized the track. With DSC off on the car, the tail end of my car was pretty loose and squiggly. but that is how to get the car around some of tight turns. I did spin a few times, but nothing major.Most of the course where right hand turns, but a few s-turns and 90degree right handers were thrown in. The straights were the fastest sections, but you'd have to keep your eyes peeled for the turns that come out of no where. My fastest time came from a fun run, which was in the low 47. Not bad for the first time out. I was getting pretty consistent by the end of day, but there was one section of track I would always mess up on. I guess a little slower going into that would make a faster exit.So, all in all, it was so much fun to drive fast around a challenging course. I met some cool people out there and like I figured, they were all car nuts. Next event, I am going to try to finish all 4 runs and push the car even a little harder.

#63 and #64

Snuck out early Friday night to catch an evening glass of. Waves were about 4 foot high, with a decent number of folks out. I parked at my usual spot and was able to get some fun rides. They were mostly straight rides again. One memorable ride was an almost straight drop down the face. I made the drop, but again, I was way too concentrated on it to do anything else. I got pretty tired from paddling around but stuck around for a 2 hour session. Saw some faces I remembered. All in all, an alright time, with the fog and all.Saturday was a point break day. All the melloness you can get. Waist to chest right hand point breaks just peeling through. It was great to be out there in a lineup with a consistent swell pushing some peelers through. I got a lot more practice with the turning and had some long rides. There were a LOT of people out and it got kinda vibey at times. I saw some shortboarder yell at another person for cutting him off. Then I tangled leashes with someone else out there and almose ran into another dude. I was attempting to cut back but ran into my brother's board too. But nothing beats a point break. So consistently peeling, with decent shoulders to take off it, and just play!In terms of progress, I need to still work on cranking a better turn. Most of my turns were pretty much half assed, and didn't really help in getting me behind the curl. I did get a little bit of cut back in, but nothing to brag about. With out that turn, I won't be able to start trimming down the line and attempt some noseing!!!

July 14, 2005

Closeout #62

Hoping for some evening mellowness. didn't come at all!saw a surf buddy saying it was good.pending closeouts throughout the beachpretty forceful trashing from some of the bigger onesGot one decent ridepaddle out was a little more tiring todayfoggy and cloudy overhangmy brother got two sessions inpacificwaverider lies, saying it is 2-5it's more like 3-7...still a lot of windswellsi wasn't comfortable sitting on the outside todaypaddled out pretty farwhen can I get some logging in?

July 11, 2005

clipping apexes

Gunned it off the starting line, pull to the right side hitting the right apex before pulling to the left side. Aimmed for the green cone, fully apparent, between the reds, keeping the speed constant. Seeing the exit, pedal to the metal till the line straightens out again.Three green cones ahead, aligned in a diagonal pattern. Three tight slalom turns to negotiate. Three tight wheel turns and then another secton of curves. More constant negotiating of the throttle. 40 mph corner exit, with more speed continuing as the acceleration for the final corner appears. Hard braking down the straightline, then clip two apexes to finish the line and cross the extra tall green pyramids, marking the end of the run.Autocrossing, probably not at its best, as this was my first time. Rest assured, I will be back, and with a big grin on my face while sliding the car around the corners again!

#61 - Kinda clear, but way windy

Wind, wind and more wind, coming from the westblowing into the sand, can hardly walk with the boardneeded to really push the board to walk on the beachglassy, westward current pulling and tugging all the wayconstant paddling, constand shifting todayjunky wind swells, ice cold feet because of lost bootiepearled and pearled, caught one shoulder highconcentrated too much on the drop, forget to turn, ride into the beachcaught the sunset and then some, nice clouds, lots of seagulls today

July 10, 2005

More Logging #60

LM sunny mellowness today in the AM-mid afternooncrowded, but friendly crowd outcaught some fun waves out thereabout 3 feet high peelers with some shoulders to work oncaught a big one, but forgot to do anything on itcaught some more smaller ones, with bottom turnsbackside turns most of the daywave of the day was an angled takeoff, right at the shoulder, long ride to the end

July 08, 2005

Logging at Taco Bell # 59

What's up with summer? Fog, junk, wind, more fog, thicker fog...that's how the past two weeks has been like. Wind slop, 9 feet windswell, some madness, and then some mellowness. Today was no different, except that I actually got in and broke my week long land locked spell. I tried to surf wednesday, but it was a little too jumbled up for my taste. I need to break this snoodiness.I started off not catching too much. I got the first wave of the day, then it was a little bit of wait until I got some more. Today was a smaller day. Average wind swell waves were about knee high. Some nice shoulders and peaks to work with.I got two really fun rides where I was able to turn the board to the top of the wave and continue going. I think I need to try to cutback at that point to continue riding. There were some other waves where I caught it and then didn't know what to do with it. So I ended up riding into the beach. It's alright today because the sets were infrequent.There were quite a few number of people out there despite the fog. But we found some peaks that were pretty uncrowded, so it was fairly mellow.More to come this weekend.

elevator button mashers

Someone walks into an elevator lobby and starts to push the call button; not once, not twice; but enough times to blow the light bulb illuminating the up botton. WTF? Then when they walk into the elevator, they push the floor number over and over again. If someone else's floor comes first, they immediately push the button again, to get the elevator to move faster. Is there some type of elevator hack out there? If you push the buttons a certain number of times, will you activate the secret menu and make the elevator go faster? Friggen christ, WTF are these people thinking? Perhaps some of them are compulsive types, some get bored, some probably want to steal the button if it comes off. In any case, there is NO USE pushing the buttons over and over again! The only thing you can achieve from this is to have me rag on you in my blog. DUMB PATHETIC MORONS!

taken from the chonricle - excellent opinion!

Why Do You Work So Hard?Is it maybe time to quit your safe job and follow your path and infuriate the establishment?By Mark Morford, SF Gate ColumnistFriday, July 8, 2005There remains this enormous and wicked sociocultural myth. It is this: Hard work is all there is.Work hard and the world respects you. Work hard and you can have anything you want. Work really extra super hard and do nothing else but work and ignore your family and spend 14 hours a day at the office and make 300 grand a year that you never have time to spend, sublimate your soul to the corporate machine and enjoy a profound drinking problem and sporadic impotence and a nice 8BR mini-mansion you never spend any time in, and you and your shiny BMW 740i will get into heaven.This is the American Puritan work ethos, still alive and screaming and sucking the world dry. Work is the answer. Work is also the question. Work is the one thing really worth doing and if you're not working you're either a slacker or a leech, unless you're a victim of BushCo's budget-reamed America and you've been laid off, and therefore it's OK because that means you're out there every day pounding the pavement looking for work and honing your resume and if you're not, well, what the hell is wrong with you?Call it "the cafe question." Any given weekday you can stroll by any given coffee shop in the city and see dozens of people milling about, casually sipping and eating and reading and it's freakin' noon on a Tuesday and you're like, wait, don't these people work? Don't they have jobs? They can't all be students and trust-fund babies and cocktail waitresses and drummers in struggling rock bands who live at home with their moms.***Of course, they're not. Not all of them, anyway. Some are creative types. Some are corporate rejects. Some are recovering cube slaves now dedicated full time to working on their paintings. Some are world travelers who left their well-paying gigs months ago to cruise around Vietnam on a motorcycle before returning to start an import-export business in rare hookahs. And we look at them and go, What is wrong with these people?It's a bitter duality: We scowl at those who decide to chuck it all and who choose to explore something radical and new and independent, something more attuned with their passions, even as we secretly envy them and even as our inner voices scream and applaud and throw confetti.Our culture allows almost no room for creative breaks. There is little tolerance for seeking out a different kind of "work" that doesn't somehow involve cubicles and widening butts and sour middle managers monitoring your e-mail and checking your Web site logs to see if you've wasted a precious 37 seconds of company time browsing blowfish.com or reading up on the gay marriage apocalypse.We are at once infuriated by and enamored with the idea that some people can just up and quit their jobs or take a leave of absence or take out a loan to go back to school, how they can give up certain "mandatory" lifestyle accoutrements in order to dive back into some seemingly random creative/emotional/spiritual endeavor that has nothing to do with paying taxes or the buying of products or the boosting of the GNP. It just seems so ... un-American. But it is so, so needed.Case in point No. 1: I have this sister. She is deep in medical school right now, studying to be a naturopathic doctor at Bastyr University just outside Seattle, the toughest school of its kind in the nation, and the most difficult to get into, especially if you've had no formal medical training beforehand, as my sister hadn't.She got in. She bucked all expectation and thwarted the temptation to quit and take a well-paying corporate job and she endured the incredibly brutal first year and rose to the top of her class. Oh and by the way, she did it all when she was over 40. With almost no money. While going through an ugly, debt-ridden divorce.Oh you're so lucky that you have the means to do that, we think. I'd love to do that but I can't because I have too many a) bills b) babies c) doubts, we insist. We always think such lives are for others and never for ourselves, something people with huge chunks of cash reserves or huge hunks of time or huge gobs of wildly ambitious talent can do. It is never for us.And truly, this mind-set is the national plague, a fate worse than death.And while it must be acknowledged that there are plenty who are in such dire financial or emotional circumstances that they simply cannot bring change, no matter how much they might wish it, you still always gotta ask: How much is legit, and how much is an excuse born of fear?The powers that be absolutely rely on our lethargy, our rampant doubts, the attitude that says that it's just too difficult or too impracticable to break away. After all, to quit a bland but stable job, to follow your own path implies breaking the rules and asking hard questions and dissing the status quo. And they absolutely cannot have that.Case in point No. 2: I have a young and rather brilliant S.O., a specialist in goddesses and mystics and world religions, who is right now working on a book, a raw funky spirituality "anti-guide" for younger women. She took a six-month leave of absence from a very decent, reliable, friendly administrative job so as to focus on the creation of this project.And while she has no trust fund, she does have the "luxury" of small parental loans to help her through, though it hardly matters: Giving up her respectable gig was insanely stressful and wracked with doubt. Leave a honest job? Give up paid health care? Have no reliable source of income for months on end? Trade calm stability for risk and random chance? No way, most people say. And of course, it was the absolute best choice she could've made. Time instantly became more fluid and meaningful. Mental clutter vanished. Possibility grinned.Case in point No. 3: Not long ago, the CEO of one of the largest and most powerful international real estate firms in the nation quit his job. Stepped down. Not, as you might imagine, for retirement and not to play more golf and not to travel the world staying only in Four Seasons suites, but to work on rebuilding his relationship with his estranged wife.My insider source tells me it was one of the most touching, and unexpected, and incredibly rare corporate memos they had ever seen. No one -- I mean no one in this culture is supposed to quit a job like that just for, What again? Love? Relationship? It's simply not done. But of course, it absolutely should be.We are designed, weaned, trained from Day 1 to be productive members of society. And we are heavily guilted into believing that must involve some sort of droning repetitive pod-like dress-coded work for a larger corporate cause, a consumerist mechanism, a nice happy conglomerate.But the truth is, God, the divine true spirit loves nothing more than to see you unhinge and take risk and invite regular, messy, dangerous upheaval. This is exactly the energy that thwarts the demons of stagnation and conservative rot and violent sanctimonious bloody Mel Gibson-y religion, one that would have all our work be aimed at continuously patching up our incessant potholes of ugly congenital guilt, as opposed to contributing to the ongoing orgiastic evolution of spirit.It is not for everyone. It implies incredibly difficult choices and arranging your life in certain ways and giving up certain luxuries and many, many people seemed locked down and immovable and all done with exploring new options in life, far too deeply entrenched in debts and family obligations and work to ever see such unique light again. Maybe you know such people. Maybe you are such people.But then again, maybe not. This is the other huge truism we so easily forget: There is always room. There are always choices we can begin to make, changes we can begin to invite, rules we can work to upset, angles of penetration we can try to explore. And if that's not worth trying, well, what is?

July 07, 2005

land locked stoke pix

Courtesy of Aqua bumps!

July 06, 2005

Mid week weakness

It's hard to write when there is no surf to write about. Everything else besides the water is just chugging along. Same ol' same ol' walk in the park. I tried getting out to the beach today. Rushed home, rushed to put everything in the car, rushed to the beach, and then denied. Junky, foggy, drizzly. I shouldn't be a wave snob, but after the beating on sunday, I think I want a little bit of mellowness before jumping back into head high poundings. Well, not really poundings anymore. I am actually having fun paddling to the outside and sitting there. The trippy part is when you sit and wait for the sets to come, knowing that anytime, a rogue wave will break just beyond where you are sitting and you have to scratch like hell to try to get over it. If all else fails, grab the board and turtle.With no luck today, I busted out the skateboard, and rolled around the parking lot. It's funny how that this time on skates, I am riding and bending it more like a surfboard. Funny..the last time I was really on it, it was on an empty 7th floor, and I was just riding it standing up. This time, I was bending and trying to carve it. If I had a longboard, it would be more fun, but after an hour of drooling over the niceness that some people were getting, I decide to head home. Fun day!No surf luck this week yet. I am starting to really itch. Luckily, I'm headed to a surf film nite tomorrow at the red vic!

July 03, 2005

Night and Day - Number 57- 58

Small mello 57 at the Hookfog and gray clouded the skysmall knee high infrequent setsnumber of foamies out there, lots of stoked beginnerscaught some small peelerscouldn't do much with them, but ride them in,shallow due to low tidebumped my knee on the rockspulled out of rides I could of had as others were on itmello vibe, everyone smilingkelp forest in full effectwaves shutdown after two hoursfun to surf, fun to have fun!Big and overhead sets roll through for 58head high frequent sets coming through LMsome power coming inpaddled for first wave, got the white rash in, did some light turningpaddled back out, timed the go out to minimize poundinggot another one in! starting to get fun!back out once more, waited...big set comes through.whip my board around, go for it just as the shoulder starts to appear,fun ride, let out a hoot, down the line, tried to bottom turn,come back up, loose speed, kinda cutback to maintain ride, come in to the beach, smiling some more.Get back outside, thinking this is great, I can handle these waves.Just jinxed myself...big set comes through, caught in the impact zone, take a bunch on the head.get tired, whipped the board around, ride the white back in...take a break, another try...chest from past weekends brusing starts to hurt.takes a little longer to get out there, sets starts to look bigger and bigger,tried to paddle for one of the bigger sets, missed, turned around and saw imminent pounding.big set starts to curl, hold on to board for dear life, ride it in!that's it for me..enough ass kicking for one day, still fun sessionBrother tears his bootie and takes a bump in the head.