98, two more to go
short period wind swells, typical summer junk, minus the wind and crowd. small waves, got a few that backed off, nothing stellar. at least i don't think!
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short period wind swells, typical summer junk, minus the wind and crowd. small waves, got a few that backed off, nothing stellar. at least i don't think!
How many roads must a man walk downBefore you call him a man?Yes, 'n' how many seas must a white dove sailBefore she sleeps in the sand?Yes, 'n' how many times must the cannon balls flyBefore they're forever banned?The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind,The answer is blowin' in the wind.How many times must a man look upBefore he can see the sky?Yes, 'n' how many ears must one man haveBefore he can hear people cry?Yes, 'n' how many deaths will it take till he knowsThat too many people have died?The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind,The answer is blowin' in the wind.How many years can a mountain existBefore it's washed to the sea?Yes, 'n' how many years can some people existBefore they're allowed to be free?Yes, 'n' how many times can a man turn his head,Pretending he just doesn't see?The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind,The answer is blowin' in the wind.
Sunday was what a summer day should be. Sunny, mellow waves...instead, that was not what we got all through summer. Being the beginning of fall, our beaches have finally showed some sign of life. And to go along with it, a big groupie fest that followed this swell through the weekend. I was one of them. I ended up not getting up early to avoid the crowd. I joined them for some fun times. For the most part it was really fun. I saw a bunch of the regulars that play on that beach. I took out the Miller and was getting more comfortable on it. I got mostly right handers and they peeled all the way to the beach, and I took it all the way there. A buddy of mine says that I was getting some cool rides on it! That was the highlight. The lowlight was that I almost took someones head off when my board shoot out from under me while I was sharing a wave. Granted it, I was in the curl more but still. I felt bad. So I need to make a mental note to make sure to have control of my board at all times, especially when it gets crowded out there. The dude was cool about it, but still.I called it quits after a few more rides. I met a board distributor out there as well. I think I've seen him on other occasions during the summer, but now I know who he is. Waves were at most chest high, but more on the waist high level. This morning, I thought I could head out and get more of the same from yesterday. The beach was pretty deserted, but I decided to jump in without much thought. I picked out a small shoulder that was occasionally breaking amist the bigger closeouts that were rolling through. I forgot to check the tides as well. It took a little patience to get out. It was more of a timing thing today. At first, I wanted to just punch through, but there were too many closeout sets coming. So I just jumped off and waited. I got to the outside and had a fun right hand ride. I took my first cross step, but I guess the board wasn't in trim, or in the right place, because as soon as I stepped forward, the board submerged! What fun!A few other friendly surfers joined me and a few of the close out sets mopped everyone up. All I saw after coming up from a turtle roll were heads bobbing in the water. Not too bad though. I got another glassy right hander, and some other not so stellar rides until I called it quits. When I got back to the beach, the sets has shaped up and were rolling through with nicer shoulders. A group of loggers had gathered at one peak and were doing some fun runs up and down the board. I noticed that some of these people were paddling horizontally back out to the lineup to avoid getting hit by breaking waves. That is not a bad idea. I got another compliment on the beach for the board I had, the Miller. It was one of the guys I shared the peak with. I like weekday mornings so much better than weekends. There is a lot more room to play around in. I guess next time, I want to get the board in trim, then take another step forward. Hopefully I can make it stick this time.
I headed to my local break this morning to catch some of the swells that have made it's way to Northern California. I almost didn't go since the reports were calling for closeout conditions. But, it's been three days since my last dip...Hell, I will go. Most of the beach was closing out, but I found a peak that had some nice shoulders to work on. I took out the new Miller today. 9'8", single fin, pintail, deck patch, nose scoop. hmm...a lot different than what I am riding. When I hopped on the board and started paddling, I did realize that I will need to be figuring out where to sit, how to take off, where is the trim spot. Well, I got a few of those down. I still don't know where the trim spot is yet, but it's such a stable and heavy board. Taking off on my first wave reminded me of when I rented a glass board in Hawaii. It is heavy, wider and longer than what I am used to. I did make that first wave, and trimmed for a little bit. Fun, I thought! I turned around and got back to the lineup in no time. At more than 3 inches, paddling was easy. I proceeded to get a few more waves and started smiling on the way back out. I think I need to work on cranking a bigger turn and be more in the wave than just diagonally being pushed by it. I did my best impression of superman as well on this board. I paddled too early for a few waves only to have it wall up on me and send me flying into the washing machine. It was nothing really though, some waist to chest high sets. There were some closeouts that came through, but luckily I didn't get caught in it. I called it a day after one of my super hero spread out pearls. The board is really stable and I felt comfortable jumping around on it. Maybe next time I can take a few steps towards the nose.I went back for an afternoon session and this time I took out my trusty 9'6". The waves were still there and a lot of the beach was closing out. I hung out at the same peak I was at in the morning. There was a mellow group out and there were plenty of waves to go around. This time, my brother hopped on the new board for a test spin. Well, since I was a genius and left the board on the car today during the sun, some of the wax went away, and he was slipping around a lot. I think by the end of the session, he was starting to get a feel of it. I see a big grin on his face as he paddled back out to the lineup.In terms of my own wave catching, I got a bunch of rights again, two lefts and I don't remember messing up on any of the ones I went for. Some of the bigger sets that rolled through looked to be closing out as well. Next I need to work on going up and down the face. I tried crouching down on one wave today, it was pretty fun!
hahahaha...just wanted to get that caption down from South Park. Today, I don't have much to write about. It's only Tuesday...damn it...ok...later...
read the title...three perfect days...doesn't it remind you of those articles you read when flying united airlines...those well descriptive articles that tries to take you to exotic places that you probably will not go to...this has nothing to do with my post.three days, but three different types of conditions...but the stoke is the same...friday night, went out for a quick utility session in gloomy overcast...it felt weird to surf because i haven't been out all week. i got a bunch of knee high right handers where I felt like I turned it well, and trimmed down the line...i even looked up on one wave...minimal crowd...everyone happy that it is the weekend...saturday, i went out again, and sat way south...the sets were less frequent, and the wind was up, it was a little junky, but i sat at a spot only with my brother. everyone else crowded by the bell. i, personally liked to sit away from people and just try to go for everything i can. the rides were nothing to remark about, but it was fun to be out...sunday, got out really early and sat an uncrowded peak...no wind...some fun little sets...and mellow vibe....i got some more fun little rides, but there is no real shoulder today, but only some closing out parts. i shared waves with a kayaker, but made a mental note to not drop in on him....won't want him to collide with me...fun, sun, but no really good waves...
small, flat, fun, flat, shorebreaks, more shorebreaks, short righties, nice sunset, mellow crowd.
I started this morning off on a little peak that was bubbling up south of the shack. There were about 4 of us and the winds were up; I was freezing. Not to worry, after a few splashes from the oncoming set, that was not in my mind anymore. We all took turns picking off the knee to waist high sets that rolled through. Crowd as friendly and I just hung back and realized I dawn patrolled. There was one set that rolled through where no one got any. That was the nicest set of the morning. Had to cut out when the 8 am whistle beckoned.Around 5pm, a buddy at work says, "Let's check the wind report!" Survey says, "S - SE blowing" That translates to offshore winds. I checked the tides and was out the door. A higher calling for me tonight. hehe..I got to the beach and it was mostly closing out. Said hi to a surf buddy, and proceeded south...far south...as far south as I can go. I sat at a peak shared by 5-6 females; not just ordinary females, but ones who can surf without leashes! I thought I was in LA somewhere, but this peak was doing its best point break imitation; complete with nice shoulders and waist to chest high sets. I kept quiet most of the time, and just observed the crew pick off the sets that came through. I finally got into the middle of the lineup and got a nice lefty. It was about knee high, but was really fun. I didn't have to paddle much to get into it. I fell into some thick kelp forest and just turned around and got back out to the lineup. The wind was really coming from the South East. I can see it from the ripples on the ocean surface. But that made these peaks much more groomed and fun to paddle into. Today, I didn't have to sit far back on the board and wait for the any junky peaks to jack up fast and throw me over the front. I actually got pretty good at my superman impersonation going over the front. I got a few more nice rolling lefts and decided to call it a day as the sun waved goodbye through the clouds. Highlights include seeing everyone in the lineup catch a wave as a nice set rolled through. By the time I got back to the outside, I see everyone else either pumping down the line on the waves or just paddling back out. Sweet score for everyone out there. Small progress update. I managed to not botch any waves I popped up on. Err, well, semi botches, because I didn't bend my needs trying to crank left turns. I feel more comfortable tonight out there with a bunch of more experienced loggers. I'm still a way off from cross-stepping to the tip, but I think I'm getting there. More shuffling around, but I want to take a few baby steps. Finally, I caught a ride where I wasn't looking down at the board.
Friday's labor day celebration session was so-so. I was a little tired from some bug I caught, so I wasn't really into it. The sets were about 3 foot, some shoulders and some peaks. I caught maybe two decent waves and scratched for a bunch of teasers that broke closer to the beach. Having been out to my home break so many times now, I seem to bump into the same people, at least the regular crew that is dedicated from Monday to Friday. Weekends are a different story. I sat at a peak with some familiar faces but no one was really talking much. One guy came out in a 10 foot foamie and killed all of them ones that rolled through. That thing can glide. It's thick and bouyant, long and lots of rocker. Two stroke max and he's in. I on the other hand was just flailing around.Saturday, I headed to SC for some of those point breaks that are mellow and fun. Not saturday! I got a few waves, one nice one where I rode right for a while before it closed out. But the highlight is all the waves that were snaked from me. A handful of times, I would almost be into it only to have someone whip around late and snag it. Sucks ass. On top of that, I got caught on the inside with at least 5 or 6 head high rollers coming through. I was swepted all the way to another lineup. Surprising, I didn't get washed into the rocks. That would suck ass! Called it a day and headed out board shopping. I had a big tendency to back off of a bunch of larger waves. Some internal mechanism just turns on, and I just sit up, right before committing to that last stroke to get in. I am not sure what it is but I need to keep mental notes to just go for it. Worst thing that can happen is a washing cycle which isn't so bad. I guess it is a fear I need to over come. I know I've dropped into waves that size but just don't know what was holding me back.Today, I was back at the home break and man was it packed. But the flipside is that there were plenty of peaks and shoulders. I got some fun lefts and was starting to get dialed in for the day. Most of the waves coming through were about knee to waist high. Fun and small peelers. Onshore was blowing, but it wasn't strong enough to blow out yet. There was a very mellow vibe on the outside. Everyone was just out on a sunny labor day. The inside was littered with foamies and learners of all stature. It made for dropping in a little more intensive. I'd have to watch for them after the dropping in. My brother had a horrible time today, mostly from avoiding the crowds. So we cut the session short. I was just getting settled in, so I had a shortened session. So I need to head out this week.
big six foot closeouts plagued the beach. Harder than usual paddle out with a few turtles and then some shots to the head.sat outside looking at these 6 footers wall up to mop everyone off. saw some of the local guys hitting it. moved south to a more mellow peak, caught a few rights and watched the sun go down. That's it!