Session 124-125
Thanksgiving gobble gobble surf. Some nice waves to be had at the Moon. Small crowd, some people without surf ettiquette. But I got my most memorable wave there to date. It wasn't that big of a wave, but I managed to stay on the face for the whole time until the front closed out on me. I haven't been able to do that at this break yet. I made it out before some more stormy weather appeared on Friday.
Today, I went out for a morning session. It seemed a lot colder than a few days ago. I was in full booties and gloves. The waves were really iffy at my local break. Some would break with shoulder, some would close out, some broke really close to shore. The crowd at 7 was minimal. I got a few fun rides, and just hung out in the lineup. The water wasn't as cold as I thought it would be. I should have sat a few peaks up to get some better waves. But there seemed to be more closeouts than anything catchable. I got a memorable ride where i kinda went up and down the face. It wasn't a big ride, but I was able to stay in the curl.
