Spank My Wookie

After our coastline being pounded by massive swells these past two weeks, mother nature is starting to wind it down a little bit before cranking back into full gear. I haven't been out in the water since before Christmas. So this past weekend, I got a pair of sessions, which is nothing really to boost, but did make me feel good to be back in. Granted, the water quality, after all this storm run-off, was brown and a little more murky. I didn't smell any offensive aroma so I decided to jump in.

Yesterday was adventure day. Well, that just means a little driving around looking for waves. I ended up at a fairly mellow spot up north. I really like going to there and have gotten some fun rides there in the past. Yet, when I decide to make my celebratory paddle out for the year, the wind decides to jump up and down on the waves. There were swooshy wind junk that made identifying waves harder for me. I ended with only two rides, but the first one was one of the longest rides of my short surfing stint. I pulled into a mellow left hander and just rode for about 20 seconds. The wave was kinda slow, and when I popped up, I was still at the top of the peak. My board was teetering on the white and took a little time before deciding to drop in and play. I even hooted for myself half way through, and can't believe I was still going.

Today was major suckage for me. Some more windchop and closeout and the typical weekend crowd. Even though, it was nice to be out and surfing in the sun. I scratched for some small lefts that rolled through. The waves today looked like summertime wind chop. It would jack up fast so you really had to be back on the board, otherwise you will superman into the whitewater and get sucked into the spin cycle. Well, there wasn't much of a spin today, but still...Also, my dumb ass decides to exit the water near the rocks. It was a mine field! I thought I had enough footing to just climb out, but no. I was cursing each step because my bootie-less feet would hit a rock and just shoot pain into the heel. Sucks ass!

Hopefully I can be back for more tomorrwo morning. It is a work day, so the crowd will be light and I hope the closeouts are not there.

No-one has commented on this entry (yet).