Spank My Wookie

Sunday, I headed out for a morning session before I got my day started. Well, I ended up taking more than half a day and surfing till I got miserably cold. It was really fun though. I was expecting a crowd, but the peak I sat at was only scattered by a few bobbing surfers. The waves were consistenyl waist high. Though there were a few sneakers that came through. Not all the sneakers closeed out, so I had a chance to pull into one shoulder high peak that I cranked a nice turn on and stayed mostly on top of the wave. There was another wave where I took off to the left and cut back so I was completely trimming towards the right! That was a really fun wave. I am beginning to make a few clean exits after a ride.

Today I sat at the same peak, which was smaller than yesterday. When I got there, it was closing out, but as the tide filled in, there were more rideable sets. The forecasts were showing short period swells around 3-5. I got mostly 3 foot peelers. I shared the peak with a few other people and learned that one guy was a repairs dings. I told him my story of how it took almost 2 months to get the board back to me. I will look him up the next time I need any work done.

I took out the Miller today; and what a different feeling it is. It's heavier to carry; I can barely get my arms around it. I needed to paddle further back on the board. The turning is definately harder. There were a few waves where I dug the rail and just biffed the ride. There were some where I rode it out of the shoulder. And yet, there were some where I just pearled. Paddling back out after a wave took a little more effort. I don't know if it is because of the weight, but the paddle is a little harder than my regular board.

Looks like there won't be much, in terms of waves, for the rest of the week. I got my stoke filled weekend and hopefully it will clear up soon.

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