« January 2006 | Main | March 2006 »
caught a double session, both of different characteristics...
morning session, got a nice right hander with two turns in!
pm session, nice lefts, a little junky,
tried to race out of a left, but lost balance and fell
that's all i remember about them...
yet more rambling about surf you think?
i guess so...
nice size, well shaped, perfect shoulders
nasty southward current
freezing cold water temp
warm hoodie and new wetsuit
conscience attempt to stay in place
say a buddy out
got a ride
got another ride
sunny day...
light winds, when is the south going to pick up?
drift further south...bump into an old co-worker
took a few more waves...
drifted way way way south
then drifted in and went to the cube farm
In hopes of finding some warmer surf, I trekked to LA. Boy did I think wrong. No swell, no pulse, no nothing from mother nature. I guess she decided to take a break from churnning out the lumpiness that came through in January. I still can't left an eight hour drive deter me from swimming and playing in salt water mixed with drain runoffs from a city of millions of people.
I decided to jump into one of those right hand point breaks LA has to offer. Topanga was a lake, Malibu was a lake, so Topanga it was. It got really cold and bumpy fast. I didn't have any rides at all. I think one little one I just bugged out on and fell. It was pretty rocky on the bottom and I didn't have booties on. I called it quits after about an hour.
Next I hit up the O.C. hoping it would fare a little better. Nothing breaking, rain runoffs had me scared a little. But when I saw the San Clemente pier filled with surfers, I eased off that notion a little bit. I ended up at a boat harbor and lined up against a low tide rock and scored ankle slapper after ankle slapper. Rocky bottom again, but it was sunny and I had a blast. A few hours later, I called it quits.
Finally went to SanO. I thought I was going to be skunked but that beach was offer up some nice peelers about waist to shoulder high. It was a little wind blown, but smoothed out by the time I left. I sat at the far left break and went for some of the chunky ones coming through. My first ride was the best of the session. Then I drifted into the pack, but got my share of waves. Fun fun and more fun.
I've been noticing some things about the wave I surf.
I still need to stop looking at my board.
I hate taking off late. I love to get in early, feel the guide and get up.
I can take off into a wave and crank a turn the other way.
If I take off late, I need to shift to the middle of the board to gain speed.
I still can't cross step, even in ankle high slappers
I can outrun my brother on his big and heavy 9'8"
I can start paddling like a madman
Making a four day surf run takes a lot out of you. By Saturday night, I was dead beat tired. I couldn't lift a finger by 10pm. Here's the recap.
Thursday:
With the ground hog shot dead and the winter air lifted for a brief moment, the sun came out to play. The ground swell subsided and I decided to ditch work. I felt pretty conflicted about it, but hey, that's why I took this job. I ran to the East Side of SC for a glass off session. Well, it wasn't supposed to be glass off, but I ended up staying till the the sun went down. Nice weather, small crowd, mellow waves...in fact a little too mellow. I actually biffed on a lot of the smaller waves because I wasn't in position. I sat too deep and paddled too early. But the time the peak flipped over, I tumbled with it also. Not too many quality rides. But, nonetheless, an afternoon session on a work day.
Friday:
8am go time at the local beach break. Nice waves, high tide was filling in nicely. I got some fun rides, met a surf buddy in the process. Took off on a right hander, bottom turned, rode up the face, attempted a straight legged cutback, and fell off! BEND YOUR KNEES!!!!!
Saturday:
I took Edlyn out for her first cold water session. I guess it went fairly smoothly. It will take her a little bit to catch on, but she had fun and won't mind going back. That sounds promising. I rode a few fun waves, avoided the weekend crowd and came in. Took in some sun, splashed around in the water after the session was over. Tried body surfing, but couldn't quite get it.
Sunday:
Swell picked up. Onshore winds are making a comeback. Go away. You're only here when the fog is around during late August. Harder paddle out. Some peaks amongst the closeouts and wind chops. Took off on a closeout; the nose hit the bottom, flew forward and went for a rinse in the washing machine. I was surprising calmer and the hold down was a little longer than what I was used to. Caught one ride in only to see my brother sitting on the beach. The paddle out was harder, but I didn't get tired too quickly. Tried my hardest to scratch for the last wave while trying to get outside. Made it, but had to rest for a bit.
Quick run to the beach on Friday to test out the new wetsuit. Negative tide rendered the beach closeout for the most part. Nothing short of big ol shore pounding is in order. Suit is warm and fits well. Took off on some shore pounds and left for work.
Saturday, scoured the coast looking for something to ride. Most west facing beaches were big and hairy. Went to Santa Cruz and scored at a particular jetty location. Nice crowd, mellow waves. My first ride was the biggest I had for the day. About a shoulder - head high roller, which I outran and got some shoulder time. I have been able to do some cutbacks and spend a lot of time up on this wave. Really fun. Will probably try to visit it again this coming weekend.
