February 22, 2006
So-Cal Smallness 17-19
In hopes of finding some warmer surf, I trekked to LA. Boy did I think wrong. No swell, no pulse, no nothing from mother nature. I guess she decided to take a break from churnning out the lumpiness that came through in January. I still can't left an eight hour drive deter me from swimming and playing in salt water mixed with drain runoffs from a city of millions of people.
I decided to jump into one of those right hand point breaks LA has to offer. Topanga was a lake, Malibu was a lake, so Topanga it was. It got really cold and bumpy fast. I didn't have any rides at all. I think one little one I just bugged out on and fell. It was pretty rocky on the bottom and I didn't have booties on. I called it quits after about an hour.
Next I hit up the O.C. hoping it would fare a little better. Nothing breaking, rain runoffs had me scared a little. But when I saw the San Clemente pier filled with surfers, I eased off that notion a little bit. I ended up at a boat harbor and lined up against a low tide rock and scored ankle slapper after ankle slapper. Rocky bottom again, but it was sunny and I had a blast. A few hours later, I called it quits.
Finally went to SanO. I thought I was going to be skunked but that beach was offer up some nice peelers about waist to shoulder high. It was a little wind blown, but smoothed out by the time I left. I sat at the far left break and went for some of the chunky ones coming through. My first ride was the best of the session. Then I drifted into the pack, but got my share of waves. Fun fun and more fun.
I've been noticing some things about the wave I surf.
I still need to stop looking at my board.
I hate taking off late. I love to get in early, feel the guide and get up.
I can take off into a wave and crank a turn the other way.
If I take off late, I need to shift to the middle of the board to gain speed.
I still can't cross step, even in ankle high slappers
I can outrun my brother on his big and heavy 9'8"
I can start paddling like a madman
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