March 22, 2006

Afternoon Logger

Posted at 23:04 in Surf.

Sunny afternoon, light onshore breeze, fading swell.
Two crowded peaks, with head high + and some closeout rights
Nice lefts rolling through.
Escaped to the south where the boats park.
5 surfers to share the waist high peelers
Bailed on one. Bailed on two.
Finally caught a warm-up righty. Can't outrun the white wash.
Paddle back out. Swing into another one. Shared the wave.
Next wave I swing for, nice long peeling right, playful shoulder, sweet spot even sweeter.
Nice kickout and garnered a thumbs up from a familiar face.
Got more waves. Shoulder high, late takeoff, but survive the drop.
Cross-stepped on one wave. Wobbly at best. Need more practice.
Said hi to another familiar face. Shared a wave with her. Slipped at the end. Needed more wax on the tail.
Shutdown commenced. Non-breaking shoulders roll to the beach.
Determined for that last wave.
Found a nice sizer coming through. Guy on the outside let it go.
I swing and made an angled entry. Cranked a right hand turn and surfed the top part of the wave.
Kicked out and called it a day!
Surf Surf and more Surf!

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