March 06, 2006
O surf gods...
Oh great surf gods...
it's been an eternity since i've gotten wet...
actually, it's only been a week and a half...
but still, surf gods, grant something semi decent...
make these miserable bumpy, choppy, ungroomed raw energy magically transform into a picture perfect day.
send those kamchatka systems that are born off the coast of japan...
have mother nature freight train them into northern california...
send those big basin highs that produce slight offshore winds and sunny days,
which grooms the sea so line after line of 15 second energy can wrap around points, light up beaches...and makes the nor cal reefs produce barrel after barrel...
send those head high peelers so that loggers can drive off the bottom and make a trip to the nose, only to outrun the wave, cutback and set the board in a trim spot and just cruise..
send picture perfect a-frames to those deserving beaches, where a regular foot and a goofy footer can both take off, hoot and holler each other into barrels...
grant the opportunity to surf at breaks that only break once a year...
surf gods...make the afternoons pleasant again, so drives along the coast searching for wedges and nuggets possible
light up the points with 7 set waves so everyone in the lineup can rotate for some killer mackers...
lets have one day where everyone can find one of those memory waves, where you can look back and say its one of the best days of the season, where novice surfers can feel like they are getting somewhere...where hardcore surfers can find stand up barrels, where beginners can catch that one wave to draw them into this experience we call surfing...
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