I surfed last thursday
I did, I did. Nothing spectacular other than brown water and wind chop. but it was fun!
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I did, I did. Nothing spectacular other than brown water and wind chop. but it was fun!
well..not exactly heaven. Most of those days were spent fighting closeouts and finding the right position. But every now and then, I got some gems that made me smile all the way back out to the lineup. Thursday, I was playing in mostly closeouts. Pretty fun taking off, cranking a turn and then jumping over the white.
Friday was nice and mellow and I got some really fun waves towards the north. The waves had a lot of shoulder and the sun was out, but the crowd wasn't.
Saturday, I spent most of my time spectating a surf contest from the lineup. Didn't get much in terms of waves, but did get to spend some time on a shortboard. Man was it weird. I lost 3 feet of foam and all the paddling power i thought I had. Missed all my waves, but I was sitting way far outside like when I am riding my log.
Sunday, was another day spent fighting closeouts. I got caught in a few of the sets that rolled through and it gave me a good thrashing. A few fun waves before the storm hit.
For the most part, Saturday afternoon was nothing more than the washing machine set on a medium rinse cycle. Lots of ugly closeouts, some of which I caught, and other which I just plain ate it. The wind was at bay and there was no crowd! I practically sat by myself until I decided that I had enough of the closeouts and just wanted to get some of the sliders that were coming through.
I wasn't all that nervous of sitting with the closeouts. I got caught in one where I got knocked down again after taking one to the head. That first breath of air was such a welcome.
I got one fun left way at the far end and that about sums it up. My goal this week is to make it out for an afternoon session now that the sun is out later.
This wasn't really a great session. Paddling out in the whitewater, closeouts, rain at times, offshore winds threatening to turn onshore in a matter of minutes. But I got a few rides, got caught in some closeouts and braved the rain to venture out into a good ol' afternoon session!