April 10, 2006
4 straight days in surfing heaven
well..not exactly heaven. Most of those days were spent fighting closeouts and finding the right position. But every now and then, I got some gems that made me smile all the way back out to the lineup. Thursday, I was playing in mostly closeouts. Pretty fun taking off, cranking a turn and then jumping over the white.
Friday was nice and mellow and I got some really fun waves towards the north. The waves had a lot of shoulder and the sun was out, but the crowd wasn't.
Saturday, I spent most of my time spectating a surf contest from the lineup. Didn't get much in terms of waves, but did get to spend some time on a shortboard. Man was it weird. I lost 3 feet of foam and all the paddling power i thought I had. Missed all my waves, but I was sitting way far outside like when I am riding my log.
Sunday, was another day spent fighting closeouts. I got caught in a few of the sets that rolled through and it gave me a good thrashing. A few fun waves before the storm hit.
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