Spank My Wookie

ok, the term niceness is borrowed. thanks for all the surf inspiration though! I had a few days of nice south swell juice. Not too much juice, but enough swell lines marching consistently onto those underwater sandbars; flipping over and creating nice shoulders for us to play on. Earlier this week, when the south was coming in at 2ft - 15-16 seconds, it was damn fun! It was enough swell to satisfy a mid summer nights dream, admist the afternoon onshores that blows till September comes around. I surfed my home break and caught some nice righties and lefties and everything in between. I even started doing cutbacks and cranking full left hand turns after making those right handers to get back into the curl.

Today I went out regardless of conditions. But the wind died down and we were left with some windswell action and some south swells did peer through. There were a lot of those sneaker clean up sets that just wiped everyone out. I had some of the longest right handers today and I felt lively on them. Up and down the face; still can't perform a backside cutback though. The best part was making a clean exit before the front closed out on me. To top it off, I even hooted for myself on a few of those. Then just for kicks, I waited for the sun to go down, and it was about 9 o clock. The joys of those evening glass-off session where the water is warm, sun is out, and smiles to go around!

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