June 26, 2006

I can see the nose

Posted at 23:21 in Surf.

For the past two sessions, I've been working on walking to the nose. Granted, I fall about every time, I did make some progress and got to about a foot and a half from the nose. I can say it's weird to look down and not see any foam underneath you. It definately feels a little faster when I am close to the tip.

So yesterday, I was out and was able to snag a majority of the waves passing through. It wasn't all that big, maybe knee high with some waist high sets. But I figured out the position I needed to be in, and just took off. There were a lot of people to navigate through, but that's an art in itself and I need to perfect that over the couse of time. What can I say about the rides? Well, I figured out I can takes some steps and get longer rides if I am in trim. That's of course nothing new, but I need to perfect it. I did get a few rides where I felt comfortable to take a step towards the nose. Most of the time, it was simply one step and then the board was unstable. I wonder what else I need to be doing?

Tonight, I went out for a glass-off session. Not too many people out and I was able to a good share of waves in an hour. There were some cross stepping moments as well. I almost made it to the nose, and even did some cutbacks. I had some long rides and a lot of then just gave me the biggest shit eating grin.

I've noticed that lately I been paddling a little different. I'm using more of my shoulders and digging in. It's a little weird to explain, but it feels like I can make more distance that before. I don't feel like I'm scratching the water as much anymore.

Oh yeah, one more thing, I have enough wax on my board now that there are actually some bumps showing. It's dirty as hell, and the area my chest is at is black. But I don't think I'm going to re-wax it until I can get to the tip!

If it sounds like I'm just blabbering, it is! I'm trying to write this while watching Sprout at the same time.1

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