June 05, 2006
surfing? again?
Posted at 23:44 in Surf.
haven't blogged about surfing in a long time. thought i'd put down some words about my latest sessions
small south swells hitting the coast
fetch is not allowing to wrap around all beaches
lots of trimming and lots of backside goodness
cross-step beginnings, one step success, two step and i plunge
drop in, crank a back side turn into trim, then slow cutbacks
reach the bottom and crank another back side turn
feel the board just bite into the wave
rails catch the inside parts and just latch on like railroad tracks
hear the sound of water being dispersed and dissapated from the waves
smiling faces, stoked to play and thankful for the playfulness
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