July 19, 2006
I can't crack this egg
Posted at 16:33 in Surf.
2 days sucking, 1 day stoked, and then a double session where I sucked both times.
Seems harder than I would have thought; trying to get used to the egg.
Out of position paddles, slotted too deep and got pummeled, not well timed
Some unsucessful duck-diving, though I am able to escape a few of those nasty rouge sets
paddling for 4 foot closeouts, slippery feet that is probably not due to wax.
I want my longboard back, no, wait..can't do that, just yet.
I made a commitment to learn this egg and get into different waves with it.
slowly, my friend, slowly.
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