Spank My Wookie

After surfing for about two years, I am still a kook. I think I'll stay this way for the rest of my life. The past two days I've been out, I think I've kooked out in almost every way possible. Sit in the wrong spot, drank salt water, paddle for wind swell peaks that just backed off, no show of aggression, dinky rides, pearls off the nose, step waves that just closeout and me doing the bottom turn to save the rides only to fall backwards right back into the white.

So how much more can I kook out? Apparantly, there's a bunch of stuff I could still do wrong that I don't anymore. Look both ways before committing to a wave, let others take the first one so that the next ones in a set are empty, paddle out to the lineup outside of the surf zone, turtle roll my board, paddle into the white when i see oncoming traffic, identifying the peaks and which way the waves go.

Today, I kooked out big time. Nothing felt right during my session. I was always out of position or someone is going for a wave, or the outside freak set rolls through; forcing everyone to paddle for the outside. Nonetheless, I had rides, but nothing spectaluar. I made up for everything on my last ride. It was a larger set wave that came through. Without hesitation, I spun and paddled for it. Felt the glide, and cranked a turn before getting to the bottom. Twisted a little and got to the top of the wave, then let the board go and played some up and downs. By the end of the ride, I had rejuvienated my stoke meter back to a decent level.

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