July 04, 2006

Off the beaten path

Posted at 23:25 in Surf.

Meet up with a surf buddy on saturday and drove the coast
he showed me a bunch of spots and what worked on which swell
some mellow waves, some flipping barrels, some that are sharky
drove to catch some of the south that was supposed to fill in
most places didn't work against the negative tide
hit up S.C. , waited for the swell...looked at a few potential spots
nothing showing...a few takers out at the Lane
Other spots were not working...drove over to the other side of town
hopped in the wettie and paddled out to a smaller spot away from the crowds
some fun rights rolled through as the morning progressed
a few sneaker sets in the waist high range, mellow paddles and mellow rides
sun was out, we just took turns away from the crowds. killer left was not breaking further out

So the surf exploration journey begins
so much potential, so little time
where to begin? a lot of coastline to look into!
which swell to go out in, which swell to just watch from a distance
where will the crowds be? and where will the fun waves be?
look just a little harder than the crowds and will be rewarded
does the surf journey just start now; with so much self discovery ahead
which boards to use? big floaty longboards? short fishy twin-keels for the mushburgers?
single fins to release a whiff of nostalgia, or one of those potato chip for those barrels
thoughts of uncrowded surf; or surf and share the stoke with others.
when will i not kook out? I'll never know.

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