Spank My Wookie

I finally got in a session more than two hours long. Saturday morning, bright and early, I decide to go hit the local break. But my thought process was to stay as long as I can. The beach was still pretty empty when I got there, but the masses of sun whoring beach goers were about to descend and soak in what is considered a rare Summer day in Northern California. But before that happens, I have my say on where I was going to sit. I decided to bring the log as I thought I would have to compete with people for waves.

It was a little weird to jump on a board so long after riding the egg for a week. The paddling was lighter and the board just glided. I got used to it again after a little bit. The biggest difference between the longboard and the egg as that there was so much more glide as I get into waves. Also, I can glide a bit longer before having to get up. I got a bunch of rides in and they were fun. I didn't attempt any crossstepping or anything like that. Just wanted to get my share of waves and make up for the lack of waves from learning the egg. By noon time, the tide filled in just enough to flatten out any incoming sets. I caught one nice right hander and decided to call it a day. Well, actually, the day just begun.

Around 5, after a nice nap and lunch, I decide to head back out for a second session. This time, I brought with me the egg, since I've warmed up earlier in the morning. The tide was pretty high and I found a spot where I caught some waves. I think I'm starting to get the hang on this board. The turning is so much fun on this. And it can turn on a dime. I still need to work out where to sit. I think I can manage to sit around mid-outside and still be able to get into waves. There were only wind swells to work with during the evening. But I got a few rides before calling it a day.

Sunday, I managed to sneak another session in around 4:00pm. The beach was again packed with sun whoring beach goers. This time, it took me a little longer to look for parking but I jumped in with about an hour of surf intended. It's flattened out a bit more, and more bumpy chop was showing. I managed one good ride before I realized I was just way too tired to attempt any more. I was having trouble getting through about 2 feet of whitewater. I decided to call it quits. My one ride was a right hander where I was able to get a bottom turn in before having the wave peter out on me.

So all in all, I surfed myself out this past weekend. It was a stoked filled weekend, as I got to surf both my boards and had a pleasant time on each one. There's a lot more work I need to do on the egg. I can now get some of the rides I got for, but I am still slipping off the back. Sometimes I sit too deep and don't anticipate getting up fast enough to juice a ride out of it.

I'm finding out I enjoy down the line surfing. I like to crank a bottom turn and then just go up and down on the wave face. Perhaps one day I will try vertical surfing.

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