Spank My Wookie

I'm trying to break this egg up and get some good rides out of it. It more or less reminds of when I started surfing the longboard. I wasn't as bad as last year. Last year, I had to worry about wave position, paddling muscle, how to pop up on the board, how to turn, and how to avoid people. While most of that is easier this time around, I keep forgetting to line up where the waves are breaking. I am either way outside or way too deep inside to get the waves. Thus, I'm getting about 2 waves a session. This isn't bad, but I want to be up on my wave count and get some nice rides. Most of my sessions have been at the local home break, but the waves have been pretty crummy. Nothing really good to work with, no real shoulders. I think I will stop complaining now. I should just say, "I suck!".

There's a lot to work on still. I've been drooling over videos of guys surfing and cranking that nice top turn cutback, with the arms stretched way out. One day I will get to do that. Now, I am enjoying cranking a bottom turn, and actually pumping down the line. On the waves that I am able to get into, pumping down the line is a lot of fun.

Last week, I decided to venture out and surf a new break. This spot is pretty close to the local break, but much less crowded and a much better wave. I've been avoiding the spot because I didn't think I'm good enough to surf it. But I think I did ok. Granted, the waves were about waist high, but I knew where to paddle out, where the channel was, where to line up for waves and actually got a couple of really fun waves. The crew that was out was pretty mellow too. This spot is more of a shortboard wave, but there was a crew of longboarders riding pretty vintage equipment. They even had a camera out taking pictures.

Needless to say, I survived, and actually felt pretty stoked afterwards. I made my waves, knew where to paddle out and just hung out there most of the time. Now, I need to get back out there when the waves a bit bigger, let's say head high?!

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