Spank My Wookie

I did a double morning session. I started off surfing small mellow LM in the morning. It was really clean and about knee high for most of the session. There were some nice rides to have. But it started to get crowded as the morning went on. I got a crazy idea to explore some of the other Pacifica breaks. I took a nice waist high wave and then jumped in the car and drove north.

Most of pacifica was not breaking so we drove north to Ocean Beach. It's a nice day, looks a relative easy paddle and enough people out. The waves were about head high and peeling everywhere. Sandbars galore!

So I said fuck it, and just went for it. It took a little bit to identify which peak to attack. But then I saw a smaller shoulder high peak and we paddled out. The paddle was pretty easy, since we went out between sets. But once outside, I could notice how far from the beach we really were. Plus the current was pretty strong. You'd have to keep paddling every few minutes to stay in position. I start to get intimidated. Plus, the mere crest of a breaking peak knocked me over. The waves were a lot more powerful than what I'd imagine.

I decided to just take one in. So a set comes through, and I spun and committed. That was surprising! It took a little bit of paddling to catch the wave, but as I stood up, the bottom just dropped off from me. I could hear the wave crashing behind me. Since this is my first wave at OB, I didn't think to crank a bottom turn. I just rode it straight in, but fell off at the end. The washing cycle was more intense than I'd expect.

As I was walking on the beach, some loggers were getting some nice rides on the inside. But they were still drifting pretty fast and the inside sand bars look pretty intense. I think I want to go back for more. So maybe on another smaller south swell, I'd paddle out again, this time, on the egg.

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