Spank My Wookie

Saturday till Thursday, I surfed every morning. At first it was to make up for the fact that I didn't get to surf at all last week. I ended up stubbing my toe on a rock and had to lay low for a few days. Then I decided to surf till I can't surf anymore because I am going to NYC for work. It would have been all kosher except for the fact that I can't bring my surf board out there. Montauk will have to wait.

So what did I accomplish this week? A lot of pound me till I start cussing at the waves! Each day, I would think I can surf the fish. And each day, I got my ass handed to me. Whether it was dealing with crowds, sitting in the wrong spot, choosing the wrong peaks, I had a minimal wave count for each session.

Well, at least I surfed right? At least, I got one wave each day that was half way decent. Look on the bright side of things; surf 6 days in a row, go to work and just mellow out. Not a bad deal. But I want those waves!

Two things I realized this past week. I need to seriously work on duck diving if I am to tackle any waves with size. The second thing is: COMMIT, COMMIT, COMMIT. Often times, I would half heartedly paddle for waves and pull out in the last second. Most of the time I think I will get folded into the looming closeout and get held down. The fact of the matter is that committing to the take off will greatly increase my chances of getting a ride. If not, it would be more, I should of gone. What would have happened if I had gone. Take the pounding, pay the dues. Hell, today, I had a bitch of a time paddling for the outside when a set wave of about 6 rolled through. COMMIT COMMIT COMMIT. Commit to each duck dive, commit to each take off. If I swing and paddle, commit to trying to make it. That is off course taking etiquette into account. If no one is on the wave, just go for it. So what if I don't make it. At least try for it.

Next session will happen in 5 days. COMMIT IS THE NEXT LESSON to learn.

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