September 27, 2006
Time to dole out some pt.1
It's now been about two years since I started surfing. The progress has been slow and at times frustrating. The inability to recreate rides I picture in my head can help me work up some nerves and anxiety. Some days, I would get the best ride and wear a big smile; on others, I would be trashed in bigger surf. Yet, I would not want to be anywhere else except in the water, pounding or not.
Today, I got asked questions from some beginners. Though I didn't sufficiently answer him, I had to try to explain when I would paddle for a wave. I don't have the best wave knowledge, and to this day, I would bail and not commit to a lot of waves.
Myself, along with another friendly surfer chick gave him enough advice so he got into a wave. I can tell he was stoked about it! He even let out a hoot. That was good enough for me to end my session.
I also got a compliment for the small steps i took on my board! Not too bad. The best part today was that I saw a pod of dolphins just hanging out and cruising the beach. It was almost like they were there to watch out for anything else that might be the water.
I'm too tired to continue.
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