Spank My Wookie

Would normal people call waking up at 6am and jumping into 55 degree water adventure? Probably not. Well, that's what I've been doing this past week. The swell has come up a bit these past few day. Friday was the cleanest of my 4 day run. Shoulder to head high waves, nice shoulders and damn, I committed to them and got some of the best rides I've had on my 7'6". Well, there was no smaking the lip or vertical slash and turn, but some nice bottom turning, setting up for some top turn back down, only to repeat a few times before being engulfed in the closeouts.

What else was cool about Friday? I learned the power and mystery of the channel. It can cut your paddling time in half, and allow you to conserve your energy to deal with the sets. Just make sure to not sit there when you want a wave. It will just tease you till you turn and paddle only to be deceived by what you think is a breaking wave.

Saturday, the swell came up a bit more, but it was packed and zoo-like. No room to move, no room to paddle, no real take offs. Pending closeouts from the 6ft 15sec swell. I could of escaped else where, but it was utility session day. I went just to get wet, and further more, I got skunked.

Sunday was a whole different story. I took out the log and managed to get almost all the waves I wanted. It was extremely foggy, and the crowd was out in full force as well, but only in certain pockets. I sat where there wasn't too much of a crowd factor and went for those little bumps that none of the shorties cannot take off on. It proved a good strategy because I was able to take off and pull of some nice turning on the log. It was a lot of fun. I think I got a lot of waves before calling it quits!

Today I got lazy. Didn't feel like waking up, although the swell is still around. Tomorrow, must surf, getting itchy...jonesing already...damn it...drop in, bottom turn, top turn, set up for a barrel ride! j/k...tomorrow, more misadventures with the usual delinquents at the beach!

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