Spank My Wookie

I've had the chance to exclusively surf my 4 fin for a few weeks. Mostly joyous and frustrating times for me. One day, I would get into a few waves and think I'm making the transition. Other days, I'd sit in the wrong spots and blow every wave I went for. But mostly, I was enjoying the denial and achy arms during the paddle out, and blowing most of my duck dives in the process; resulting in being pushed back into the beach.

I made a six day surf run two weeks back before needing to hop on a plane to NYC. Most of those sessions were not memorable. Waves were closing out, or I was sitting with the pack and just didn't get into any waves. Sucks! Me suck!

This past Sunday, I decide to switch it up and take the 7'6" out for a spin. It's been a while, my orange friend. Instantly I noticed a difference on how I surf it. I am not sure if gaining a foot made a difference, but I was able to get waves! Last time I surfed it, I was still falling off it and blowing every wave that came through. Was it the time I spent on the fish that made the difference? We will have to attempt this again to be sure.

I managed to paddle earlier for waves and took off on some closeouts and pulled out on a bunch. I had a really long lefty that I rode like a long board, and took it all the way into the beach. It was packed at the beach, so I made the paddle to the further, less crowded peak. The waves were consistently rolling through and they were in the chest to shoulder high range. I attempted to take off on one, but pulled out because I saw someone taking off towards me. The weird thing was the wave broke and peeled right. He took off and went left. Collision avoided! My last wave was memorable and I've been replaying it in my head for the past two days now: I see a bump approaching and spin to start paddling. I was not quite on the outside, but was in enough position to snag it as the bump built and my board started to glide. I cranked a bottom turn to the right and looked up, and saw that I was right in the curl with plenty of shoulder to play with. The board was speeding along and I cranked a cutback to extract maximum pleasure. Without really looking at where I am, I cranked back towards the right and went for a little bit more before the wave puttered out. That was incredible!

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