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December 12, 2006

Quiver Count

Here is a recount of all the boards I own

6'6" Epoxy fish - light, twin keel, I don't really ride this
6'9" Mandala 4 fin quad fish - Lots of foam, loosey feeling, great paddling, fast on shoulder high waves
9'0" Hynson performance longboard - glassed on side bits, moderate nose rocker. Really fun and turns a lot, though I don't ride it much
9'6" Coletta - the board I learned to surf on. Still my favorite board. This is my feel good board. Whenever I am looking for a high wave count, this is the board I take out. My learning to cross stepping board.
9'8" bob miller - low rocker, single fin, heavy, pin tail. true old school log. I can't seem to get use to riding it, though it is really stable and solid. I actually hate this board

Does this look like a wave?

I spent the past week longboarding at my local break. The big macking swell was on it's way, but before that, there was a week of consistent 3-4 foot peelers going both left and right. I made it a point to catch all of it before the 12-13 foot 20second swell rolled in.

Logging is such a relaxing way to surf. Everything from the easy paddle out, to the early paddle in, to the drawn out bottom turn, to me falling off the nose! All in good fun! I practiced some cross stepping on both the right and left. I still have a better feel going left, but I got a better feeling on the right. What I noticed is that cross stepping on the right feels a lot faster. I also have a better feeling with trimming. When I get the board in trim, the nose just sticks on flat and the board feels locked in. There's a few times where I got the board in perfect trim, but didn't care to walk up front. I should have gone for it.

Now, I am just aching to get back in the water, but the weather has not been cooperating. Anyways...one full week till Costa Rica!

December 04, 2006

go logging and you will find soalice

brrrrr...cold, brisk, sunny mornings...
big ol log to compete with the crowds...
small peelers with fun shoulders...
stiff offshore winds blowing rainbow reflections...
annoying southward currents...
paddle hard and be rewarded with small nuggets of playfulness...
botton turn and hit the trim mark...
take a step forward, shuffle back...cross step forward again...
hit the trim mark...pop out the back and knee paddle back out...
in the zone for all the unclaimed waves left by the group going for closeouts...
morning madness...no one giving waves...
drop in and snakes, but i mellow out and wait for the remainder of sets...that was fun!