December 12, 2006
Does this look like a wave?
I spent the past week longboarding at my local break. The big macking swell was on it's way, but before that, there was a week of consistent 3-4 foot peelers going both left and right. I made it a point to catch all of it before the 12-13 foot 20second swell rolled in.
Logging is such a relaxing way to surf. Everything from the easy paddle out, to the early paddle in, to the drawn out bottom turn, to me falling off the nose! All in good fun! I practiced some cross stepping on both the right and left. I still have a better feel going left, but I got a better feeling on the right. What I noticed is that cross stepping on the right feels a lot faster. I also have a better feeling with trimming. When I get the board in trim, the nose just sticks on flat and the board feels locked in. There's a few times where I got the board in perfect trim, but didn't care to walk up front. I should have gone for it.
Now, I am just aching to get back in the water, but the weather has not been cooperating. Anyways...one full week till Costa Rica!
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