December 04, 2006
go logging and you will find soalice
Posted at 22:50 in Surf.
brrrrr...cold, brisk, sunny mornings...
big ol log to compete with the crowds...
small peelers with fun shoulders...
stiff offshore winds blowing rainbow reflections...
annoying southward currents...
paddle hard and be rewarded with small nuggets of playfulness...
botton turn and hit the trim mark...
take a step forward, shuffle back...cross step forward again...
hit the trim mark...pop out the back and knee paddle back out...
in the zone for all the unclaimed waves left by the group going for closeouts...
morning madness...no one giving waves...
drop in and snakes, but i mellow out and wait for the remainder of sets...that was fun!
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