Spank My Wookie

I ended up in S.C. yesterday. After driving down the coast and checking most of the spots; the elements were against us. 10+ feet of NW swell, high tide of 6 feet and some strong north winds blowing. Most spots were really junky and downright scary. I hooked up with a surf buddy of mine and decided to check some of the S.C. spots. Some of the spots were out of position for the swell to wrap into, and others were kinda going off. We settled on a spot that was about head+. I was a bit hesitant to paddle out, but just decided to say fuck it; days of getting pounded in Costa Rica had to have meant something.

I surfed my log, but wish I had a shorter board. Now, I didn't say I didn't have fun. I had some of the best waves ever. There was a mixture of mushy waves that didn't really break, and then there were head+ sets that was pretty powerful. I got a bunch of waves, and a lot of them were fairly long rides. I made some up and downs on the waves, and rode in the curl most of the time. There were waves where I crouched down and waited for the lip to barrel. It didn't really do it, but seeing the entire wave face bigger than myself was way cool! I haven't been that stoked in a long time. Next time I head there, I'll bring my shorter boards and see what kind of fun I can have.

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