Spank My Wookie

This will be year three of my surfing journey. What have I done so far? I can consistently get up on a board. I concentrate more on the ride than the pop-up. I've surfed a bunch of spots; some in So-Cal, some more secretive spots in Nor-Cal, some goofy rides in Hawaii, and got some really warm water surf in Phuket Thailand and a true surf trip to Costa Rica.

I've figured out my feel good board is my longboard. I'm pretty proficient riding it now. I don't pearl it that much, and I can recover from pearling, as well as pull out before I fall into a closeout pit. I got my first custom board. It's a 6'9" 4 fin, and I also have a 7'6" Egg. Both are really fun, but I need a lot more practice on the fish. I don't get out with it consistenly enough.

I can duck dive, well, with the amount of volume on my shorter boards, it's still pretty hard. My logging skills are a bit better now. I am a few steps closer to the nose. If I only had a wave like Malibu or San Onofre to surf on. Oh well, when summer comes, its time to surf a little bit more leashless.

I've been out on some scarier surf this year. 6+ sneaker sets have slammed and tossed me around quite a bit. I'm more comfortable in head + surf. I'm starting to look at getting shacked in some of the more hollower waves around.

So what's in store this year? I guess the only way is up. I'm going to try to work on surfing different waves and also some of the bigger stuff. Maybe I'll paddle out at Ocean Beach a bit more on the smaller days during the summer. It's still scary stuff. Maybe I'll try a true short board this year. Also, maybe a surf trip to Baja?!

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