weekend surf and it was ok
Friday I went out, paddled, got caught on the inside, took a few on the head, wagged my tail between my legs, and then went to work. sucks for me.
Sunday, went logging at super high tide and a mundo crowd. Got a couple of outside sets before the tide really slowed things down. must go surf somewhere and must go do it soon...
damn it...itching, jonesing, itching, jonesing,
dreaming, glassy peaks, hollow barrels,
green room sensation, offshore spray, onshore hoots, friendly lineups
lightweight banter, courteous manners,
hooting everywhere, hooting your bro into waves
paddle over to the stacking sets, pop ups and hard bottom turns
taking the high line to outrun the waves, full spray cutbacks
damn i wish i can do that! just one day...