Spank My Wookie

Swell running 8ft 13secs
nasty closeouts throughout
some makeable corners
dry hair paddle out in a channel
turn the corner to get into position
closeouts pour through
tide is sucking out
turn to look and setup pretty far from the beach
makable wave comes through
turn and paddle, notice it was going to close out
try to pull out, but too late
got trashed and spun,
was kept down longer than usual
more trashing, hit the bottom
see the light through my eyelids
open my mouth for a breath, but
got nothing more than a gulp of sea water,
i guess i was swimming in foam
turn to paddle back out, but got caught on another wave,
try to duckdive, but got ripped off the board..another trashing

retreat to the beach, take a deep breath,
about to call it quits, but went back for another wave
sat for about an hour...
waist high decent set comes through
turn and paddle, dropped in, stuck my hand in the water
bottom turned, up to the top and turned down the bottom
and that was it.

Posted by Baldwin at 01:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Posted by Baldwin at 08:45 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Surfs been ok, spring wind has been blowing, but I haven't had that much time these past few weeks to make it more than a few sessions. Mostly junky, tail wagging between my legs type surf, that are nothing more than me flapping around. I guess its ok. We all have our good days and bad days...This past Saturday, I went to catch some of the swell that was rolling through. Though it wasn't really anything to write home about, there was some fun nuggets once the tide filled in.

I opted to surf far away from the crowds. Out in full force, I knew if I surfed with them, I would run into them, or get hit, or something worse. So I paddled out on the fish and waited for the tide to come. It was well worth the extra effort. For most of the session, I was trading waves with only a few other souls and no crowds to deal with. Really fun waves I had on the fish. Then mid-session, I switched to the log and got a bunch more. That's about it for now!

Posted by Baldwin at 07:07 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Posted by Baldwin at 08:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)