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June 29, 2007
Wonky Funky Kookiness
Some days you just can't surf. I mean, you are are out there; paddling for waves, popping up on waves, and bailing big time on waves. You feel out of rhythm, and off balance. You think to yourself; did I start surfing yesterday?
Yesterday was one of those days for me. Totally out of control kookiness on the smallest of waves. I blew my takeoffs, dug the rails when I turn, got slammed into three foot madness. The waves were small, the wind wasn't blowing hard, and the crowd light. I just couldn't surf.
I didn't manage to snag some midway through the session that made up for all the bad waves, but I totally didn't expect that. I was even in the mood to surf leashless. Good thing I did end up surfing with a leash. So yes, kookiness in all, it was still fun and I got a few waves at the end that made up for it.
Chris Farley Lives
In ten years, we will see a remake of the movie Tommy Boy...err...I mean Tommy Girl
June 22, 2007
It was International Surfing Day
And I did not surf. In fact it was pretty miserable up here. I did attempt to though. I got my car packed and ready, except the ocean did not cooperate. So what did I do instead? Eat!
June 18, 2007
finally a string of surf days
Managed a trio of sessions last week.
No time to sway too far, no exploring
just surf at my local spot
three days with three different results
it usually doesn't get big where i go
lumpy closeouts most of the time till the tide fills in
longboarded the first day, did a bit of walking. Almost to the nose!
Rode my homemade egg the next day, got a couple of rides, pretty fun, tasty and floaty
logged again on the final day. closeouts and warbly outside conditions. nothing magical, just a utility session
made a couple of nice drops on and cruised in the pocket.
June 12, 2007
Surf the new egg
I finally picked up the egg I shaped. Tossed an 8 inch blue fin on it and waxed it up. The board paddles pretty good, and seemed pretty easy to catch waves. With a single fin, the board is harder to turn on the wave, but you can still do with some effort.
I caught one wave where I rode the high line and did a cutback before exiting out the back. There weren't too many waves coming through, so I didn't get to ride it that much. So I need to take it out some more. Maybe tomorrow, I'll get a better feel for it.
But it was fun to be out there and know that you're riding your own shape. That's pretty cool.
June 03, 2007
Again, I'm still here
Lots of work related stuff, not enough surfing. damn .. oh well. I've snagged a few good sessions in the past month, but haven't been surfing as much as I wanted to be. Its also because of the stupid spring wind that is blowing.
Alright...I'll write more next time. I promise.