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Some days you just can't surf. I mean, you are are out there; paddling for waves, popping up on waves, and bailing big time on waves. You feel out of rhythm, and off balance. You think to yourself; did I start surfing yesterday?
Yesterday was one of those days for me. Totally out of control kookiness on the smallest of waves. I blew my takeoffs, dug the rails when I turn, got slammed into three foot madness. The waves were small, the wind wasn't blowing hard, and the crowd light. I just couldn't surf.
I didn't manage to snag some midway through the session that made up for all the bad waves, but I totally didn't expect that. I was even in the mood to surf leashless. Good thing I did end up surfing with a leash. So yes, kookiness in all, it was still fun and I got a few waves at the end that made up for it.
In ten years, we will see a remake of the movie Tommy Boy...err...I mean Tommy Girl
