Spank My Wookie

I've ignored this blog for the past half year, partly because I got bored of writing in it. Everything started to sound the same. Most of the postings ended up being one liners or YouTube links. Not anymore! I'm going to start rambling about surf again. I figure I should continue to write about this.

So to start off, my new years sessions took place on the 2nd. I booked it down to the beach hoping to catch one last day of surf before the storm rolls through. Checked out two spots before deciding on the good ol local home break, which I haven't surfed in a while. I was kind of disappointed when I got there because the entire beach was flat, and there were three guys out in the far north scratching for little bumps.

I took a long look from shore and saw that the tide was dropping and that there were some potential waves breaking, just not enough. But with the dropping tide, there has to be something to surf.

Quick change, and I mulled over which board to take. Since I haven't surfed the fish in a long time, I ended up taking that out. Walking up the beach, I saw that my only good option was the far north. Quick stroll out there and started paddling for the lineup. Even though I did surf two days before, my paddling muscles were not really up to the challenge of a long paddle out. I felt a little burn before reaching the lineup.

When I got out there, the waves were actually breaking bigger than how it looked from the beach. I positioned for the right peak as everyone else was taking off on the left. The right wasn't as long as the left, but I didn't have to paddle against other surfers for waves. It was a good trade off.

First wave I took off on caught me a little by surprise. It was bigger than I expected and I was a little off balance from not riding the fish for a while. I basically dropped in, cut left, turned right, waited for the reform and cranked another turn and pulled off. That wave has been my best wave in a long time. I looked back to the lineup and noticed I rode almost all the way to the beach. I let out a quick hoot and paddled back out.

A couple of sneaker sets rolled through and I got worked on the bigger one. But I did manage to duck dive the smaller sneaker wave. I did feel the wave energy break on top of me, but I made it out the back ok.

My second wave was like the first one, but this time, I looked up and save the wave curling a bit. Nothing special, but I realized the wave a bit overhead, which is something like a first for me. The fish seemed really fast and by the time I exited the wave, I was flying off instead of pulling off.

Back out for another which wasn't as good as the first two. I feel off as the wave started to reform. Paddled back to the beach and ended session one pretty stoked.

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