January 15, 2008

Session 3 - Victory at Sea on a little 5'10"

Posted at 9:54 in Surf.

Only three session to start this year off with. That's fine by me. As long as there is a way to get wet, I'm happy. I was so excited that the swells have come down to manageable size and that I can DP this whole week. I mad dashed to the beach admist the fog. Some of the reports were calling for NW winds up to 6knots. That will usually mess things up, plus there is an outgoing tide till 11am.

Crumbly, bumpy, junkie, unappetizing is all I can say. But, I have a little 5'10" quad fish I wanted to try out. Suit up, wax up, and paddle out to what I thought had to the most shoulder. There were shoulders alright, but I had to duck dive one after the other before getting out there.

And you know what? I can actually duck this little fish a lot better than the 6'9" I have. There is a lot of float to the board so paddling feels like the longer fish. Most of the morning, I was scrambling to avoid the wind swell junk. I had only two rides, none of which were to brag about. In fact, I fell on the first one trying to bottom turn. I guess I have to be lighter on my feet. Will make a note of it.

But man, I love the duck diving capabilities of this board so much more. I'm going to have to make myself one of these soon!

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