Spank My Wookie

I finally got in a session where I had a grin on my face as I left the beach. It wasn't a stellar swell day, or was it the best waves that came through. All it took was some nice rides, some lonely time, and nice weather, with some offshore flow. The tide was even going out, which meant more closeouts than rideables. But this day, I felt compelled to through myself over the ledge even though it was closing out. I got some decent rides and switched boards with a buddy who just picked up a hybrid. To top it off, I even got the first ride paddled for on that board!

The things that a my 7'6" does is so awesome. It's a really fun board to ride when you don't want to bring out the longboard. I don't know why it took me so long to fix it!

The very next day, I went out in mushy blown out gloomy, fogged in wind chop. It was still a lot of fun to get out there and paddle around. But that is about all i did.

Testing to see what the update date is.

Posted by Baldwin at 03:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I had an early weekend start and ended up driving down to Cowells for an early morning surf. Tide was starting to drain and the crowd was light. Parked right next to the stairs and headed out for a few good waves. Then paddled out to the Lane and that was tough. The waves were thicker and I wasn't too prepared for them nor it's power. Paddled around shifty peaks for a few more hours and then came in. Not too spectacular of a session, but it was sunny and pretty mellow.

Later that day, we checked some spots further south and the long period energy was showing. I wasn't up for paddling back out so I headed home.

Monday paddle out in honor of our presidents. Outgoing tide, weekend crowd, some head high waves were the call. I took out the 7'6" for the first time in a long time. As a result, I screwed up on my first two waves, which were hard to come by. The crowd started to thin, but the lack of waves kept everyone eager to jump on the first wave to come through. My first hour was horrible. I felt like I haven't surfed before, bailing on very makeable waves. Then I started to get back into the groove and took off on a few head high waves that were really fun. Ended the session with a ride into the beach and it was cold.

This morning was cold, rainy, incoming fat tide and no rides. The very north end was breaking but the lulls were long and my bones were cold. A big sneaker set came, and looked very makeable, but I didn't have the nuts to turn and go. Looking back, I should of, since that was the set of the day. The energy in the north end is a lot different than the rest of the beach. The waves would break in a more predictable spot and was a lot fatter and larger. When I was preparing to leave, I was the only one of two surfers left in the water. Pretty surreal since this place is super crowded. Unfortunately, I didn't get any waves today.

Posted by Baldwin at 02:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Hoping that the swell will wrap around to south facing spots, I choose to ignore the usual spots and head further south.

What I got in return was an incoming tide, jumbled swell, some waves, lots of 6 foot closeouts and good paddling workout. The main peak was ruled by good surfers so I hung out where sloppy closeouts came and just ended paddling outside, getting bashed, duck dived successfully through some big sets and just got cleaned up when a 7 wave set snuck up on me.

On top of that, I still haven't gotten any rides on the little 5'10" fish I've been playing around with. I guess the length is still a bit foreign to me, and I need more practice on it before being able to score on it. I think i need to build me one of these because my bigger fish is so much harder to duck dive, and the paddling power is pretty similar. Smaller...here I go....

Posted by Baldwin at 03:18 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I sucked. no rides, nothing..nada..zip...except i got wet. and that was fun, since I haven't been out in over a week and a half.

Posted by Baldwin at 01:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

one rainy and empty, lumpy, but fun, fun fun shoulder high peelers amiss the incoming high tide. rain coming down, hitting my hood, and splashing all around. ducks as companions and pelicans flying overhead. lonely lineup, friendly and familiar faces when someone would show up.

went out again and the rain and sewage flow just turned the whole beach brown. creeks flowing with toxic juices fit to destroy all that it came in contact with. charged it with a small fish and good vibes...had a nice mellow bunch to sit in the lineup with...got a few waves, nothing special, just drop in turn and pull out.

Posted by Baldwin at 02:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)