Session 9 - 8ft 15 sec
Hoping that the swell will wrap around to south facing spots, I choose to ignore the usual spots and head further south.
What I got in return was an incoming tide, jumbled swell, some waves, lots of 6 foot closeouts and good paddling workout. The main peak was ruled by good surfers so I hung out where sloppy closeouts came and just ended paddling outside, getting bashed, duck dived successfully through some big sets and just got cleaned up when a 7 wave set snuck up on me.
On top of that, I still haven't gotten any rides on the little 5'10" fish I've been playing around with. I guess the length is still a bit foreign to me, and I need more practice on it before being able to score on it. I think i need to build me one of these because my bigger fish is so much harder to duck dive, and the paddling power is pretty similar. Smaller...here I go....