three sessions 10-11-12, all different
I had an early weekend start and ended up driving down to Cowells for an early morning surf. Tide was starting to drain and the crowd was light. Parked right next to the stairs and headed out for a few good waves. Then paddled out to the Lane and that was tough. The waves were thicker and I wasn't too prepared for them nor it's power. Paddled around shifty peaks for a few more hours and then came in. Not too spectacular of a session, but it was sunny and pretty mellow.
Later that day, we checked some spots further south and the long period energy was showing. I wasn't up for paddling back out so I headed home.
Monday paddle out in honor of our presidents. Outgoing tide, weekend crowd, some head high waves were the call. I took out the 7'6" for the first time in a long time. As a result, I screwed up on my first two waves, which were hard to come by. The crowd started to thin, but the lack of waves kept everyone eager to jump on the first wave to come through. My first hour was horrible. I felt like I haven't surfed before, bailing on very makeable waves. Then I started to get back into the groove and took off on a few head high waves that were really fun. Ended the session with a ride into the beach and it was cold.
This morning was cold, rainy, incoming fat tide and no rides. The very north end was breaking but the lulls were long and my bones were cold. A big sneaker set came, and looked very makeable, but I didn't have the nuts to turn and go. Looking back, I should of, since that was the set of the day. The energy in the north end is a lot different than the rest of the beach. The waves would break in a more predictable spot and was a lot fatter and larger. When I was preparing to leave, I was the only one of two surfers left in the water. Pretty surreal since this place is super crowded. Unfortunately, I didn't get any waves today.