February 28, 2008

two sessions, and finally some stoke #13-14

Posted at 15:47 in Surf.

I finally got in a session where I had a grin on my face as I left the beach. It wasn't a stellar swell day, or was it the best waves that came through. All it took was some nice rides, some lonely time, and nice weather, with some offshore flow. The tide was even going out, which meant more closeouts than rideables. But this day, I felt compelled to through myself over the ledge even though it was closing out. I got some decent rides and switched boards with a buddy who just picked up a hybrid. To top it off, I even got the first ride paddled for on that board!

The things that a my 7'6" does is so awesome. It's a really fun board to ride when you don't want to bring out the longboard. I don't know why it took me so long to fix it!

The very next day, I went out in mushy blown out gloomy, fogged in wind chop. It was still a lot of fun to get out there and paddle around. But that is about all i did.

Testing to see what the update date is.

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