Spank My Wookie

Friday was a great day to surf. The sun was out and the wind was not an issue. The waves were not that great, but I had most of the peak to myself and was really playful on it. I didn't have to share with anyone! Nice! But, if someone were to come along, that would have been good too.

I got a bunch of rides on my egg and managed to get some turning in. That is kind of unusual for my home break. Most of the time, it is just drop in, turn and either exit, or ride the white.

So then I went and tried to get a second session in on Friday afternoon. Needless to say, it was all jacked up. It was a bitch of a time paddling outside. When I got there, it was the nastiest junkiest waves I've seen in a long while. I got one wave and decided to call it quits. Afterwards, I hung out with a buddy for a long time in the parking lot and just shot the shit. Still a good day, I must say.

On Sunday, after all the Easter and weekend madness, I had the chance to run to the beach for an afternoon session. When we were leaving the restaurant, the winds were starting to kick up and I was really thinking it will be a repeat of Friday afternoon.

For the most part, the drive down to the beach had every indication that it was going to blow out. The tree branches were blowing hard, and all the flags I use as an indicator were blowing from the NNW direction. More disappointment?

No! When I got to the beach, there was slight texture on the water, but only a little bit, and it was warm. Families were out, and people were surfing. Though the crowds were a little light. But that is ok.

I suited up very quickly, even parked in a no-parking spot. The waves were not the greatest shape, and the tide was going out. But, it was so nice and warm to be out there. I had some waves, but nothing really spectacular. But I paddled around for two hours, got some fun waves.

Posted by Baldwin at 02:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

Two days, two rides, a lot of paddling, two boards, two sloppy choppy days of surf.

that's about it.

Posted by Baldwin at 02:22 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

sucked! windy sloppy choppy cold.

Posted by Baldwin at 02:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

I haven't lost my board that many times in one session in a long time. The egg is not that easy to duck dive and not heavy enough to turtle correctly. So when those big outside sets came through, there was no choice by to just hold on and try to turtle. I made it through some of the times, but then lost my board a number of times too. Mostly, I was hoping I can spear through the lip, but alas, I would get dragged backwards.

That was not to say I didn't get any waves. I got a few ok ones, then I got my last one which was really fun. I don't remember it much anymore, but I do remember dropping down a chest high/shoulder high face and had to really crank the turn to get in trim. I think I was riding in the pocket the whole time and that was really fun. I think I made a couple of up and down turns and then a clean exit. Stokey ride, something I haven't had in a long time.

Then it was back to getting kicked around by the outside sets...and then the wind turned truly junky.

Posted by Baldwin at 08:05 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)