Spank My Wookie

I haven't lost my board that many times in one session in a long time. The egg is not that easy to duck dive and not heavy enough to turtle correctly. So when those big outside sets came through, there was no choice by to just hold on and try to turtle. I made it through some of the times, but then lost my board a number of times too. Mostly, I was hoping I can spear through the lip, but alas, I would get dragged backwards.

That was not to say I didn't get any waves. I got a few ok ones, then I got my last one which was really fun. I don't remember it much anymore, but I do remember dropping down a chest high/shoulder high face and had to really crank the turn to get in trim. I think I was riding in the pocket the whole time and that was really fun. I think I made a couple of up and down turns and then a clean exit. Stokey ride, something I haven't had in a long time.

Then it was back to getting kicked around by the outside sets...and then the wind turned truly junky.

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