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A String of 5 sessions in a row. But that is nothing compared to Daily Dale. 33 years non-stop and counting. Here's his article
« March 2008 | Main | May 2008 »
A String of 5 sessions in a row. But that is nothing compared to Daily Dale. 33 years non-stop and counting. Here's his article
was really fun, big and cold. small crowd, smiles all around..fun biggish drops and long shoulders.
Stellar Surf Sessions. Evening Glass-offs...a morning utility session, and a stellar beach bum day with a double sessions in glassy waist high peelers...then tacos and then an afternoon session!
That's all i have to say. I'm burnt and stoked.
I surf a bunch this past week. And hopefully the trend isn't going to stop. The swells coming in now are mainly small windswells, which means long waist high longboarding waves. There's nothing like stroking into a mid size wave, popping up and just trimming down the line. It's even better when you can put a few turns into it and run up the board. Well, I got the turning part down. Running up to the nose wasn't as easy.
I feel comfortable with one step, maybe two, but I just get to the nose. I guess, I should let the inhibitions go and just run to the front, even for just a little bit, and even if the nose will pearl.
The waves yesterday were perfect for that type of practice and I find that I walk a bit easier when I am going backside. I did make a few waves where I got some stepping in. Not a lot though.
Prior to yesterday, I just had utility sessions. Nothing to write home about. Just enough paddling to get some exercise in.