April 02, 2008
23-24-25-26 quatro sessions en la manana
I surf a bunch this past week. And hopefully the trend isn't going to stop. The swells coming in now are mainly small windswells, which means long waist high longboarding waves. There's nothing like stroking into a mid size wave, popping up and just trimming down the line. It's even better when you can put a few turns into it and run up the board. Well, I got the turning part down. Running up to the nose wasn't as easy.
I feel comfortable with one step, maybe two, but I just get to the nose. I guess, I should let the inhibitions go and just run to the front, even for just a little bit, and even if the nose will pearl.
The waves yesterday were perfect for that type of practice and I find that I walk a bit easier when I am going backside. I did make a few waves where I got some stepping in. Not a lot though.
Prior to yesterday, I just had utility sessions. Nothing to write home about. Just enough paddling to get some exercise in.
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