Spank My Wookie

I did surf once last week, and once this weekend. Both sessions were pretty fun.

Surfing is the hardest thing I've ever done. I'm still kooking out most of the time. On Sat, I took a buddy out for his third session. I remember the times when I was in his shoes; standing there in the shorebreak, not knowing when to time the paddle out. Then when I did decide to start going for the outside, a set will come in and wipe all that progress away. No matter how much I tried, even a small 3 foot set would wipe out all the progress. Then I feel de-motivated and start to just stand and wait out the shore pound. But can that really happen at a beach break where the tide is outgoing and every little wave looks like a 5 foot closeout? By the time that lull comes, I've realized that I've been swept 50 yards down the beach and I still haven't made it to the outside.

Well, I guess I've progressed a little bit since then, but there are plenty of trying times when I just get humbled and be made to think that I can't surf worth shit. It happens to all of us. Even when you have had a good 5 day string of sessions, there will be that one day, where I feel like I can't surf and flail and just kook out on all waves.

I guess that is what makes surfing so hard. It is easy to get dejected and just turn around and come in. There's nothing wrong with it. I've done that plenty of times, especially when there's a big 6 foot closeout coming down on me. I'll turn around and go in, with my tail between my legs. But that is ok. At least I've tried.

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