sit in the wrong place,
fight rouge waves,
paddle for duds,
sit too far inside only to get caught,
big sneaker sets,
high tide,
onshore winds,
sore arms from the last session,
not in the right frame of mind
shifty peaks
in need of a bitch slap
wrong position

I did all that today, and didn't score a wave.

The first one happened when I went for a glass-off session. It was super crowded because the weather was really nice and everyone was at the beach. I had to park way down at the last lot possible. I'd already surfed in the morning, but I thought it would be cool to make a night session. Quickly suited up and paddled out to a semi-crowded peak. The pack was thick and there were tons of people flopping around. Nothing wrong with that. I used to do that. But some of the more experienced surfers would not give a shit and start to paddle in front of me, even though they see I was right behind. I had to back off and not got a bit ticked at one dude. I was even contemplating dropping in on him just because. But I didn't. Anyhoo, a shoulder high set comes through. One mellow guy had already taken the first one of the set. I wasn't in position, but the guy sitting deeper than me hesitated. I quickly whipped it around, and stroked into my wave of the afternoon. It was about chest high, and mushy. I was able to crank a turn or two out of it before falling off. Needless to say, I was stoked to catch that. On the way back out, the guy who took the first one said that was a really nice wave. I grinned, and thanked him knowing that I got that one!

The next morning, I went out again. The tide was coming in, and the pack was thick again. But this time, it was only crowded at certain places. I was able to find a spot that only had one guy on it. I've surfed with him before and he's a really good surfer. He would take off really late on a long board. Except, he would paddle parallel to the beach and just wait for the tail to catch. It was awesome to see that. Anyway, I paddled out and sat to the right of him. He's a goofy, so I figured to surf the right. Not long after getting out, a set comes through and I let him take the first one. The second one stood up a little bit more than I expected. It looked like it would close out. I said fuck it and turned and stroked into it. The wave was very makeable and I made it pretty far inside before falling off. Why? I always fall off some of my better rides.

I paddle back out, big grin on my face. The other guy asks if I made it. I said yes, to which he responds, "That is a nice first wave!" . That pretty much set the tone of the session. I grabbed wave after wave, all the while, the peaks north of me were packed with black specks. I must of hit a wave count of 10 or so, and that was only after being out for 30 minutes. I took my last one in as the tide was starting to wash things out. And that was one of my more stoked sessions all week!

Surfing is the hardest thing I've ever done. I'm still kooking out most of the time. On Sat, I took a buddy out for his third session. I remember the times when I was in his shoes; standing there in the shorebreak, not knowing when to time the paddle out. Then when I did decide to start going for the outside, a set will come in and wipe all that progress away. No matter how much I tried, even a small 3 foot set would wipe out all the progress. Then I feel de-motivated and start to just stand and wait out the shore pound. But can that really happen at a beach break where the tide is outgoing and every little wave looks like a 5 foot closeout? By the time that lull comes, I've realized that I've been swept 50 yards down the beach and I still haven't made it to the outside.

Well, I guess I've progressed a little bit since then, but there are plenty of trying times when I just get humbled and be made to think that I can't surf worth shit. It happens to all of us. Even when you have had a good 5 day string of sessions, there will be that one day, where I feel like I can't surf and flail and just kook out on all waves.

I guess that is what makes surfing so hard. It is easy to get dejected and just turn around and come in. There's nothing wrong with it. I've done that plenty of times, especially when there's a big 6 foot closeout coming down on me. I'll turn around and go in, with my tail between my legs. But that is ok. At least I've tried.

Dale Webster

That's all i have to say. I'm burnt and stoked.

I feel comfortable with one step, maybe two, but I just get to the nose. I guess, I should let the inhibitions go and just run to the front, even for just a little bit, and even if the nose will pearl.

The waves yesterday were perfect for that type of practice and I find that I walk a bit easier when I am going backside. I did make a few waves where I got some stepping in. Not a lot though.

Prior to yesterday, I just had utility sessions. Nothing to write home about. Just enough paddling to get some exercise in.

I got a bunch of rides on my egg and managed to get some turning in. That is kind of unusual for my home break. Most of the time, it is just drop in, turn and either exit, or ride the white.

So then I went and tried to get a second session in on Friday afternoon. Needless to say, it was all jacked up. It was a bitch of a time paddling outside. When I got there, it was the nastiest junkiest waves I've seen in a long while. I got one wave and decided to call it quits. Afterwards, I hung out with a buddy for a long time in the parking lot and just shot the shit. Still a good day, I must say.

On Sunday, after all the Easter and weekend madness, I had the chance to run to the beach for an afternoon session. When we were leaving the restaurant, the winds were starting to kick up and I was really thinking it will be a repeat of Friday afternoon.

For the most part, the drive down to the beach had every indication that it was going to blow out. The tree branches were blowing hard, and all the flags I use as an indicator were blowing from the NNW direction. More disappointment?

No! When I got to the beach, there was slight texture on the water, but only a little bit, and it was warm. Families were out, and people were surfing. Though the crowds were a little light. But that is ok.

I suited up very quickly, even parked in a no-parking spot. The waves were not the greatest shape, and the tide was going out. But, it was so nice and warm to be out there. I had some waves, but nothing really spectacular. But I paddled around for two hours, got some fun waves.

that's about it.

That was not to say I didn't get any waves. I got a few ok ones, then I got my last one which was really fun. I don't remember it much anymore, but I do remember dropping down a chest high/shoulder high face and had to really crank the turn to get in trim. I think I was riding in the pocket the whole time and that was really fun. I think I made a couple of up and down turns and then a clean exit. Stokey ride, something I haven't had in a long time.

Then it was back to getting kicked around by the outside sets...and then the wind turned truly junky.

The things that a my 7'6" does is so awesome. It's a really fun board to ride when you don't want to bring out the longboard. I don't know why it took me so long to fix it!

The very next day, I went out in mushy blown out gloomy, fogged in wind chop. It was still a lot of fun to get out there and paddle around. But that is about all i did.

Testing to see what the update date is.