Surf

My progression as a kook!

Tuesday 17 June 2008

Thursday 29 May 2008

  • 45-46-47-48 - How to get skunked. sit in the wrong place, fight rouge waves, paddle for duds, sit too far inside only to get caught, big sneaker sets, high tide, onshore winds, sore arms from the last session, not in the right... (17:13 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 20 May 2008

  • 39-40-41-42-43-44 - 6 consecutive session!! Most of these were on glassy waist high waves. Really mellow longboarding. There were two waves that really stuck to me. They were both sneakers. The first one happened when I went for a glass-off session. It... (15:41 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 12 May 2008

  • 37-38 - I did surf once last week, and once this weekend. Both sessions were pretty fun. Surfing is the hardest thing I've ever done. I'm still kooking out most of the time. On Sat, I took a buddy out for his... (16:08 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 29 April 2008

  • 32-33-34-35-36 - A String of 5 sessions in a row. But that is nothing compared to Daily Dale. 33 years non-stop and counting. Here's his article Dale Webster... (11:30 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 22 April 2008

  • session 31 - was really fun, big and cold. small crowd, smiles all around..fun biggish drops and long shoulders.... (16:06 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 14 April 2008

  • 27-28-29-30 - Stellar Surf Sessions. Evening Glass-offs...a morning utility session, and a stellar beach bum day with a double sessions in glassy waist high peelers...then tacos and then an afternoon session! That's all i have to say. I'm burnt and stoked.... (21:13 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 2 April 2008

  • 23-24-25-26 quatro sessions en la manana - I surf a bunch this past week. And hopefully the trend isn't going to stop. The swells coming in now are mainly small windswells, which means long waist high longboarding waves. There's nothing like stroking into a mid size wave,... (11:00 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 24 March 2008

  • 20-21-22 up, then down, then up again - Friday was a great day to surf. The sun was out and the wind was not an issue. The waves were not that great, but I had most of the peak to myself and was really playful on it. I... (14:04 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Thursday 20 March 2008

  • 18 and 19. Two unmemorable sessions - Two days, two rides, a lot of paddling, two boards, two sloppy choppy days of surf. that's about it.... (14:22 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Thursday 13 March 2008

  • SEssion 16-17 - sucked! windy sloppy choppy cold.... (14:10 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 4 March 2008

  • session 15 - a lot of ass being kicked - I haven't lost my board that many times in one session in a long time. The egg is not that easy to duck dive and not heavy enough to turtle correctly. So when those big outside sets came through, there... (08:05 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Thursday 28 February 2008

  • two sessions, and finally some stoke #13-14 - I finally got in a session where I had a grin on my face as I left the beach. It wasn't a stellar swell day, or was it the best waves that came through. All it took was some nice... (15:47 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 19 February 2008

  • three sessions 10-11-12, all different - I had an early weekend start and ended up driving down to Cowells for an early morning surf. Tide was starting to drain and the crowd was light. Parked right next to the stairs and headed out for a few... (14:35 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 11 February 2008

  • Session 9 - 8ft 15 sec - Hoping that the swell will wrap around to south facing spots, I choose to ignore the usual spots and head further south. What I got in return was an incoming tide, jumbled swell, some waves, lots of 6 foot closeouts... (15:18 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Thursday 7 February 2008

  • session 8 - I sucked - I sucked. no rides, nothing..nada..zip...except i got wet. and that was fun, since I haven't been out in over a week and a half.... (13:54 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Saturday 2 February 2008

  • two sessions ages ago - 6 & 7 - one rainy and empty, lumpy, but fun, fun fun shoulder high peelers amiss the incoming high tide. rain coming down, hitting my hood, and splashing all around. ducks as companions and pelicans flying overhead. lonely lineup, friendly and familiar faces... (14:16 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 22 January 2008

  • Surf with friends - Session 5 - Got to surf with a couple of buddies I've met along the way. Session was short, a few fun rides, but got to shoot the breeze with some people and the sun was shining. It wasn't that stellar of a... (17:17 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 16 January 2008

  • Session 4 - More Victory At Sea - Only 5 guys out. Hard Off shores blowing, lumpy windswells...fight to stay in place, big closeouts coming through. Got one wave, and that was about it. I sucked.... (16:39 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 15 January 2008

  • Session 3 - Victory at Sea on a little 5'10" - Only three session to start this year off with. That's fine by me. As long as there is a way to get wet, I'm happy. I was so excited that the swells have come down to manageable size and that... (09:54 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 14 January 2008

  • Session 2 - Rivermouth Goodness - Afternoon dash out to the North Bay for some hopeful goodness at a popular spot High tide washes away beach nice and sunny suit up and run down sit and wait, decide where to go...out to the patch or just... (09:48 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 12 December 2007

Tuesday 7 August 2007

  • Surf? I've been surfing - A lot has been happening in my non-surfing life, causing me to ignore this blog. Poor blog. Poor Blog. But I have been surfing when I can. There's nothing really to write about from the local front. Just as everyone... (10:18 | 0 Trackbacks | 1 Comments)

Friday 29 June 2007

  • Sliding Liberia - (09:34 | 0 Trackbacks | 1 Comments)
  • Wonky Funky Kookiness - Some days you just can't surf. I mean, you are are out there; paddling for waves, popping up on waves, and bailing big time on waves. You feel out of rhythm, and off balance. You think to yourself; did I... (07:47 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Friday 22 June 2007

  • It was International Surfing Day - And I did not surf. In fact it was pretty miserable up here. I did attempt to though. I got my car packed and ready, except the ocean did not cooperate. So what did I do instead? Eat!... (10:33 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 18 June 2007

  • finally a string of surf days - Managed a trio of sessions last week. No time to sway too far, no exploring just surf at my local spot three days with three different results it usually doesn't get big where i go lumpy closeouts most of the... (09:42 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 12 June 2007

  • Surf the new egg - I finally picked up the egg I shaped. Tossed an 8 inch blue fin on it and waxed it up. The board paddles pretty good, and seemed pretty easy to catch waves. With a single fin, the board is harder... (10:01 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Sunday 3 June 2007

  • Again, I'm still here - Lots of work related stuff, not enough surfing. damn .. oh well. I've snagged a few good sessions in the past month, but haven't been surfing as much as I wanted to be. Its also because of the stupid spring... (17:17 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 24 April 2007

  • Wipeout galore - Swell running 8ft 13secs nasty closeouts throughout some makeable corners dry hair paddle out in a channel turn the corner to get into position closeouts pour through tide is sucking out turn to look and setup pretty far from the... (13:46 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 9 April 2007

  • A Couple of utility sessions - Surfs been ok, spring wind has been blowing, but I haven't had that much time these past few weeks to make it more than a few sessions. Mostly junky, tail wagging between my legs type surf, that are nothing more... (19:07 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 27 March 2007

  • Mellow Longboarding - Surfed a popular S.C. spot on the East Side. Negative tide, and lots of exposed reef and kelp took out the longboard and did a lot of trimming Early take offs, stall off the bottom and cross stepped forward trimming,... (14:02 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 20 March 2007

  • weekend surf and it was ok - Friday I went out, paddled, got caught on the inside, took a few on the head, wagged my tail between my legs, and then went to work. sucks for me. Sunday, went logging at super high tide and a mundo... (23:11 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 19 March 2007

  • And here is the next creation in foam - I'm hoping to pull off a 5'7"x21x2 3/4 disc shape. The nose is 17 inches and the tail will be 16 inches. I'm imagining this with a singe fin and will be surfed in the upcoming summer mush. Here are... (23:58 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Thursday 15 March 2007

  • Early morning session - I actually woke up before the sun came up and darted out of the house. Well, not really darted. I still have a morning routine that must take place. It goes down like a checklist. Get dressed, say hello to... (22:17 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 12 March 2007

  • Final dimensions - So my desired dimensions were 7'6"x21x2 3/4. I think I got the 21 inch part. I also think I came close to 7'6", but I am pretty sure I'm off on the 2 3/4 part. I don't have a way... (22:52 | 0 Trackbacks | 2 Comments)
  • Three utility sess - I am on a utility session run. Starting from Saturday, I've hit the home break and got similar results. Saturday afternoon was ok, with lots of wind swell coming in. About waist to chest, with some + sets. Not much... (22:33 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 7 March 2007

  • I went fly fishing - Spontaneous morning DP didn't expect to score much got out and north end was throwing four foot peelers took the trusty fish out to sea today hopped in the channel, and paddled to the lineup mellow crew of shortboaders take... (23:11 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 5 March 2007

  • More shaping and more dust and foam - Friday night, I rolled up my sleeves and went forth to mow some more foam. It was definitely a night of firsts. It was my first time skinning the hard crust off the blank. I didn't realize that in order... (22:45 | 0 Trackbacks | 2 Comments)

Thursday 1 March 2007

  • Start Shaping sonny - I managed to find some time today and built my shaping stands. They were nothing more than a couple of 2x4s and some screws. Courtesy of www.surfersteve.com, I was inspired to make my own version of the shaping stands. I... (21:56 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Monday 26 February 2007

  • Commence building a broken egg - Well, I think there is some truth to the title. I got around to motivating myself to build a surfboard. Last Saturday, I went and bought a US Blank 7'6". It's a rather beat up looking piece of foam. Funny... (23:34 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)
  • Stoke-ness in S.C. - Picked up a surf buddy on Saturday and jammed to Santa Cruz. After checking a couple of east side spots, I was getting the feeling I will get skunked. Imagine that, woke up early in the morning, hi-tailed it to... (20:53 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Sunday 18 February 2007

  • Just a few utility sessions - Nothing to report from surf-land. I went and got a few utility sessions in the past two weeks. Nothing spectaular to write home about. I fixed the dings on my Fish. Everything was good, except my color matching skills are... (19:54 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Sunday 4 February 2007

  • Stoked session in SC - After a brutal day of bumper to bumper surfing at a local break, I hit a spot in S.C. which is absolutely gorgeous and fun for anyone who attempted. Most peaks were seeing some good amount of action, but I... (21:47 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 24 January 2007

  • I finally made it out - After getting skunked for two weeks, I finally made it back out! Nice, sunny, offshore, some sandbars, and I sucked!!... (21:03 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Sunday 7 January 2007

  • Head high + and so much fun - I ended up in S.C. yesterday. After driving down the coast and checking most of the spots; the elements were against us. 10+ feet of NW swell, high tide of 6 feet and some strong north winds blowing. Most spots... (22:49 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)
  • Let the year begin - This will be year three of my surfing journey. What have I done so far? I can consistently get up on a board. I concentrate more on the ride than the pop-up. I've surfed a bunch of spots; some in... (22:34 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Wednesday 3 January 2007

  • Bueno Dias en la Costa Rica - I went! First surf trip, first time packing surfboards, first time buying warm wax, first time packing extra leashes, first time buying a foreign surf guide, first time mellowing out and following the tide patterns, first time being stoked surfing... (00:12 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)

Tuesday 12 December 2006

  • Quiver Count - Here is a recount of all the boards I own 6'6" Epoxy fish - light, twin keel, I don't really ride this 6'9" Mandala 4 fin quad fish - Lots of foam, loosey feeling, great paddling, fast on shoulder high... (12:04 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)
  • Does this look like a wave? - I spent the past week longboarding at my local break. The big macking swell was on it's way, but before that, there was a week of consistent 3-4 foot peelers going both left and right. I made it a point... (11:55 | 0 Trackbacks | 0 Comments)